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Hi Bob,
I put the switches to sense the gear leg position rather than the doors, and wired them through the down-sensing switches so I have a green light if each gear leg is fully down, and an amber light that comes on when the gear leaves the fully down position.This light goes off when the respective gear leg fully retracts.
I wanted to point out that my noise gear microswitch is mounted on the overcenter link at the center joint where it locks overcenter. That way when you get a safe Green light you are sure it is locked overcenter, the only thing that really counts. Be sure that it doesn't hit the engine pan when retracted and the wires clear everything.
Remember on the noise gear doors, that all the ram air pressure in the cowl is trying to push the doors open and they leak air no matter what. The front of the doors, from the end of the hinge forward, need to curve up to press against the front cowl lip when closed. This same cowl lip needs to be removed at the left and right corners to allow for the cowl removal down with the doors slipping through this gap. Mine needed to be opened up after several cowl removals for more room. With a 4 bladed prop the lower cowl must go down farther before moving forward. The door linkage needs all the adjustment points that Bob P. pointed out. I just redid mine in April to achieve a better door fit.
If I could do it over I would design a One piece door like an F16 that would seal against rubber stopping the air leak, but the linkage would not be easy. Of course, I would put a Turbofan in the tail too but that's another dream. Or just fly it like it is. It is great fun.
Jim Hergert
N6XE, "An Sex Y" L4P
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