Return-Path: Sender: (Marvin Kaye) To: lml Date: Thu, 03 Jul 2003 01:19:34 -0400 Message-ID: X-Original-Return-Path: Received: from imo-d03.mx.aol.com ([205.188.157.35] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 4.1b8) with ESMTP id 2455020 for lml@lancaironline.net; Thu, 03 Jul 2003 00:25:21 -0400 Received: from JIMRHER@aol.com by imo-d03.mx.aol.com (mail_out_v36_r1.1.) id q.1a3.1734c471 (4238) for ; Thu, 3 Jul 2003 00:25:14 -0400 (EDT) From: JIMRHER@aol.com X-Original-Message-ID: <1a3.1734c471.2c350a28@aol.com> X-Original-Date: Thu, 3 Jul 2003 00:25:12 EDT Subject: Re: LIV-Nose Gear Doors X-Original-To: lml@lancaironline.net MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_1a3.1734c471.2c350a28_boundary" X-Mailer: 8.0 for Windows sub 910 --part1_1a3.1734c471.2c350a28_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hi Bob, I=A0put the switches to sense the gear leg position rather than the doors,=20= and=20 wired them=A0through the down-sensing switches so=A0I have a green light if=20= each=20 gear leg=A0is=A0fully down, and an amber light that comes on when the gear l= eaves=20 the fully down position.This light goes off when the respective gear leg ful= ly=20 retracts.=20 =20 I wanted to point out that my noise gear microswitch is mounted on the=20 overcenter link at the center joint where it locks overcenter. That way when= you get=20 a safe Green light you are sure it is locked overcenter, the only thing that= =20 really counts. Be sure that it doesn't hit the engine pan when retracted and= =20 the wires clear everything. Remember on the noise gear doors, that all the ram air pressure in the cowl=20 is trying to push the doors open and they leak air no matter what. The front= of=20 the doors, from the end of the hinge forward, need to curve up to press=20 against the front cowl lip when closed. This same cowl lip needs to be remov= ed at=20 the left and right corners to allow for the cowl removal down with the doors= =20 slipping through this gap. Mine needed to be opened up after several cowl=20 removals for more room. With a 4 bladed prop the lower cowl must go down far= ther=20 before moving forward. The door linkage needs all the adjustment points that= Bob=20 P. pointed out. I just redid mine in April to achieve a better door fit. If I could do it over I would design a One piece door like an F16 that would= =20 seal against rubber stopping the air leak, but the linkage would not be easy= .=20 Of course, I would put a Turbofan in the tail too but that's another dream.=20= Or=20 just fly it like it is. It is great fun. Jim Hergert N6XE, "An Sex Y" L4P --part1_1a3.1734c471.2c350a28_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="ISO-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hi Bob,

I=A0put the switches to sense the gear leg position rather than the doors,=20= and wired them=A0through the down-sensing switches so=A0I have a green light= if each gear leg=A0is=A0fully down, and an amber light that comes on when t= he gear leaves the fully down position.This light goes off when the respecti= ve gear leg fully retracts.


I wanted to= point out that my noise gear microswitch is mounted on the overcenter link=20= at the center joint where it locks overcenter. That way when you get a safe=20= Green light you are sure it is locked overcenter, the only thing that really= counts. Be sure that it doesn't hit the engine pan when retracted and the w= ires clear everything.

Remember on the noise gear doors, that all the ram air pressure in the cowl=20= is trying to push the doors open and they leak air no matter what. The front= of the doors, from the end of the hinge forward, need to curve up to press=20= against the front cowl lip when closed. This same cowl lip needs to be remov= ed at the left and right corners to allow for the cowl removal down with the= doors slipping through this gap. Mine needed to be opened up after several=20= cowl removals for more room. With a 4 bladed prop the lower cowl must go dow= n farther before moving forward. The door linkage needs all the adjustment p= oints that Bob P. pointed out. I just redid mine in April to achieve a bette= r door fit.

If I could do it over I would design a One piece door like an F16 that would= seal against rubber stopping the air leak, but the linkage would not be eas= y. Of course, I would put a Turbofan in the tail too but that's another drea= m. Or just fly it like it is. It is great fun.

Jim Hergert
N6XE, "An Sex Y" L4P
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