I am curious if you folks think auto fuel can cause problems with aluminum tanks and sealer.

KIND REGARDS

Thomas Giddings

n360tg@earthlink.net

727 858 1772

On Apr 9, 2012, at 2:28 PM, Tracy wrote:

I understand why that would motivate you to go OMP Mark!

Not that I know the bottom line truth to the auto fuel/ fiberglass nightmares that have struck so many builders lately but the latest theory I heard is that it is not the Ethanol that is eating the tanks but the much advertised fuel injector / valve cleaner additives that many oil companies are putting in the gasoline.   Who knows?

Tracy
Sent from my iPad

On Apr 9, 2012, at 12:38 PM, Mark Steitle <msteitle@gmail.com> wrote:

Tracy,

OK, here's the rest of the story...

I have come to believe the Lancair wing fuel tank design may have been

partly responsible for the damage to my apex seals.  Lancair uses a

wet wing and there are ribs forming 4 separate fuel bays per wing.

The ribs have "mouse holes" to allow fuel to pass from section to

section.  Years ago, when I used to run mogas, I used a fuel trailer

and would add 2-stroke when filling.  It would be well mixed by the

time I pumped it into my a/c tanks.  I was forced to switch to 100LL

when the beaurocrats started blending ethanol in all auto fuels

(ethanol is non-compatible with the Jeffco adhesives).  I now have to

fuel at the airport(s), so the process is to pour the 2-stroke into

the wing as I pump the fuel.  This isn't easy to do and I seldom

finish pouring the oil at the same time the tank is reaching full.

Pouring oil while fueling surely helped, but in retrospect I suspect

it still didn't mix thoroughly due to the ribs in the tanks.  I can't

figure a way to get the fuel thoroughly mixed, so I decided to switch

over to the OMP system.

Maybe the answer is to do both.  I can run the OMP (with 3-lines) and

also add some additional 2-stroke (1/2 oz./gallon) to the wing tanks.

Not perfect, but much better than the alternative.

Mark

On 4/9/12, Tracy <rwstracy@gmail.com> wrote:

Hope I didn't give the impression I was an expert on the Mazda oil injection

system.   I only remember where the 4 lines went on the 13B from

disassembling so many of them.   Only 2 of the ports (secondaries I believe)

got the oil lines so only 4 needed.    Don't think I've ever seen a 20B OMP

setup  (my 20B engine was built from new parts).   I can't imagine why there

are 4 lines on a 20B setup.   I think there are only 2 lines used on 3rd gen

13Bs.  Only the rotor housings are fed, not the manifold.   Since the 20B is

essentially a 3rd gen engine,  I would have thought it would have a similar

setup with 3 lines (one to each rotor housing).

I'm still of the opinion that you can't do better (from a functional

standpoint) than premixing the oil so I've never played with the injection.

It just isn't practical for most people in car use.   That's why 95%+ of OMP

adapters are purchased by car guys.

Tracy

PS:   I thought I sent that updated EC2 installation guide to you before I

left home (I'm in Colorado until early May)   The main difference from last

one you have is that Both A & B are programmed when running on A controller.

When using B, only B is affected by programming changes.

Sent from my iPad

On Apr 9, 2012, at 10:12 AM, Mark Steitle <msteitle@gmail.com> wrote:

Tracy,

How should I plumb the 4 lines for the 3-rotor.  From your

explanation, it seems it should have 6 lines (2 per rotor)?  Even the

20b OMP only has 4-ports. Should I split the 4th line into three

separate lines?  Do you know of anyplace where I could read about how

OMPs are connected from the factory?

Thanks,

Mark

P.S.  Were you going to email me a copy of the updated EC-2 manual?

On 4/9/12, Tracy <rwstracy@gmail.com> wrote:

Two into the rotor housings, two into the intake manifold just upstream

of

the ports in the block.

Tracy

Sent from my iPad

On Apr 9, 2012, at 5:42 AM, Mark Steitle <msteitle@gmail.com> wrote:

Steve, that's why I'm asking the experts on this.  I'm still trying to

figure this out.  The older 13b OMP has 4 ports.  So did the 20B OMP,

with

only three lines.  I was planning on not using the 4th port.  Where does

the 4th line go to on the 13b setup?

Mark

On Sun, Apr 8, 2012 at 8:29 PM, Steven W. Boese <SBoese@uwyo.edu> wrote:

Mark,

Since the OMP 's I've seen are set up with 4 oil lines and intended for

a

two rotor engine, how do you intend to adapt it to the three rotor

engine

in terms of amount of oil metered and how it is distributed?

Steve

From: Mark Steitle

Sent: Saturday, April 07, 2012 8:10 PM

To: Rotary motors in aircraft

Subject: [FlyRotary] OMP Plumbing

Is anyone running an oil metering pump (OMP) that can help me figure

out

how the lines should be connected.  I'm planning on using the Mazda

banjo fittings to hook up to the OMP, but what do I do with the check

valves.  Do you connect the check valves to a vacuum source or just

block them off?  Will the system work properly if I plug the check

valves?  I plan on locking the lever in the full open position.  Will

this work for a/c use?  I'll be using Richard Sohn's adapter with a 1

gallon reservoir filled with 2-stroke oil.

Mark S.

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