New
problem: melt down after shut down. That turbo has a lot of very
hot mass. I flow enough air through the cowl when running to keep things
cool. Right after shut down the cowl is just luke warm to the
touch. But 5 min after shutting down the turbo side of the cowl is too
hot to touch on the top and I can smell resin. It gets a little
soft to tap on it and it is starting to look a little mottled and maybe
yellow (if I let my immagineation run away). I have seen a couple of RVs
with drop down hatches in the top cowl to let heat out after shut down.
Does anyone have an idea about how hot I can let the fiberglass get?
Bright Ideas?
I have the same problem, sort of. I put some
thin stainless, about like thick foil, on the top and bottom cowling above and
below the turbo. I was more interested in radiant heat getting to it in
flight, but it also works well for the heat after shut down. I just put
it on with 100% silicone rubber. The cowling still gets pretty warm, but
not hot.
New Problem:
RMI tach no good. According to my RMI engine monitor I have about 4300
RPM at 24 MAP. At 29 MAP I still only have about 4500 RPM and at 35 MAP
I am still at 4500 RPM static. I dont buy it because it sure sounds
different (faster). So I have to install an accessory
Tachometer.... Tracy, where was the Engine Monitor when I was building
the pannel? :-) I still have holes in my mixture map
as every now and then I pass through a hole and the mixture goes all
haywire.
Like John mentioned, I used a pulse divider as
well. I couldn't get a reliable reading using the 12 pulse output.
I divide by 6 using a CMOS divider, which puts out pulses equivalent to a 4
cylider engine. Most tachs will take that. If you want I can look
up the part number for the IC I used, but I think that it was a
CD4060.
Old problem
still not fixed: Low RPM: to keep it running it needs to be rich, so
much that I billow smoke down 400 yrds of hangars. It comes out in
billows every 2-3 seconds. Above 2200 RPM there are no problems (never
were). Will be trying some 460cc injectors instead of the 550 primaries
I currently have. If that dosen't work, the 2200 RPM will have to be the
idle speed.
I have some tuning issues, but not that one. Mine
idles great at about 800, and runs great above 2000. Between
those RPM's I have issues, but I think that it's because I tuned the
engine with a good sized air leak. I'm going back to default, and
starting over.
Steve Brooks
Cozy MKIV N75CZ
Turbo Rotary