Return-Path: Received: from mail.tsisp.com ([65.23.108.44] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 4.2b3) with ESMTP-TLS id 85556 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Sun, 23 May 2004 09:51:33 -0400 Received: from stevehome by mail.tsisp.com (Technical Support Inc.) with SMTP id CQA74584 for ; Sun, 23 May 2004 09:51:32 -0400 Reply-To: From: "Steve Brooks" To: "'Rotary motors in aircraft'" Subject: RE: [FlyRotary] Two problems solved, 2 more pop up... Date: Sun, 23 May 2004 09:54:04 -0400 Message-ID: <003901c440cd$69557ca0$6400a8c0@WORKGROUP.local> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_003A_01C440AB.E243DCA0" X-Priority: 3 (Normal) X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook CWS, Build 9.0.2416 (9.0.2910.0) Importance: Normal In-Reply-To: X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V6.00.2800.1165 This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_003A_01C440AB.E243DCA0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit MessageRusty, I now know what you mean about cooked items under the cowl. I have been doing a lot of running with the cowl on lately. Luckily cooling is no longer an issue. Can run more than an hour under 2300 RPM with occasion bursts up to 35 MAP for up to 15 sec without overheating. The big key in that was running 80% water antifreze and some water wetter. Oil temps never a problem. New problem: melt down after shut down. That turbo has a lot of very hot mass. I flow enough air through the cowl when running to keep things cool. Right after shut down the cowl is just luke warm to the touch. But 5 min after shutting down the turbo side of the cowl is too hot to touch on the top and I can smell resin. It gets a little soft to tap on it and it is starting to look a little mottled and maybe yellow (if I let my immagineation run away). I have seen a couple of RVs with drop down hatches in the top cowl to let heat out after shut down. Does anyone have an idea about how hot I can let the fiberglass get? Bright Ideas? I have the same problem, sort of. I put some thin stainless, about like thick foil, on the top and bottom cowling above and below the turbo. I was more interested in radiant heat getting to it in flight, but it also works well for the heat after shut down. I just put it on with 100% silicone rubber. The cowling still gets pretty warm, but not hot. New Problem: RMI tach no good. According to my RMI engine monitor I have about 4300 RPM at 24 MAP. At 29 MAP I still only have about 4500 RPM and at 35 MAP I am still at 4500 RPM static. I dont buy it because it sure sounds different (faster). So I have to install an accessory Tachometer.... Tracy, where was the Engine Monitor when I was building the pannel? :-) I still have holes in my mixture map as every now and then I pass through a hole and the mixture goes all haywire. Like John mentioned, I used a pulse divider as well. I couldn't get a reliable reading using the 12 pulse output. I divide by 6 using a CMOS divider, which puts out pulses equivalent to a 4 cylider engine. Most tachs will take that. If you want I can look up the part number for the IC I used, but I think that it was a CD4060. Old problem still not fixed: Low RPM: to keep it running it needs to be rich, so much that I billow smoke down 400 yrds of hangars. It comes out in billows every 2-3 seconds. Above 2200 RPM there are no problems (never were). Will be trying some 460cc injectors instead of the 550 primaries I currently have. If that dosen't work, the 2200 RPM will have to be the idle speed. I have some tuning issues, but not that one. Mine idles great at about 800, and runs great above 2000. Between those RPM's I have issues, but I think that it's because I tuned the engine with a good sized air leak. I'm going back to default, and starting over. Steve Brooks Cozy MKIV N75CZ Turbo Rotary ------=_NextPart_000_003A_01C440AB.E243DCA0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Message
Rusty,  I now know what you mean about cooked items = under the=20 cowl.  I have been doing a lot of running with the cowl on = lately. =20 Luckily cooling is no longer an issue.  Can run more than an hour = under=20 2300 RPM with occasion bursts up to 35 MAP for up to 15 sec without=20 overheating.  The big key in that was running 80% water antifreze = and some=20 water wetter.  Oil temps never a = problem.
 
New=20 problem:  melt down after shut down.  That turbo has a lot = of very=20 hot mass.  I flow enough air through the cowl when running to = keep things=20 cool.  Right after shut down the cowl is just luke warm to the=20 touch.  But 5 min after shutting down the turbo side of the cowl = is too=20 hot to touch on the top and I can smell resin.  It gets a = little=20 soft to tap on it and it is starting to look a little mottled and = maybe=20 yellow (if I let my immagineation run away).  I have seen a = couple of RVs=20 with drop down hatches in the top cowl to let heat out after shut = down. =20 Does anyone have an idea about how hot I can let the fiberglass = get? =20 Bright Ideas?
 
I have the same problem, sort of.  I = put some=20 thin stainless, about like thick foil, on the top and bottom cowling = above and=20 below the turbo.  I was more interested in radiant heat getting = to it in=20 flight, but it also works well for the heat after shut down.  I = just put=20 it on with 100% silicone rubber.  The cowling still gets pretty = warm, but=20 not hot.
 
 
 
New Problem:=20 RMI tach no good.  According to my RMI engine monitor I have = about 4300=20 RPM at 24 MAP.  At 29 MAP I still only have about 4500 RPM and at = 35 MAP=20 I am still at 4500 RPM static.  I dont buy it because it sure = sounds=20 different (faster).  So I have to install an accessory=20 Tachometer....  Tracy, where was the Engine Monitor when I was = building=20 the pannel?  :-)    I still have holes in my = mixture map=20 as every now and then I pass through a hole and the mixture goes all=20 haywire.
 
Like John mentioned, I used a pulse divider = as=20 well.  I couldn't get a reliable reading using the 12 pulse = output. =20 I divide by 6 using a CMOS divider, which puts out pulses equivalent = to a 4=20 cylider engine.  Most tachs will take that.  If you want I = can look=20 up the part number for the IC I used, but I think that it was a=20 CD4060.
 
 
 
Old problem=20 still not fixed:  Low RPM: to keep it running it needs to be = rich, so=20 much that I billow smoke down 400 yrds of hangars.  It comes out = in=20 billows every 2-3 seconds.  Above 2200 RPM there are no problems = (never=20 were).  Will be trying some 460cc injectors instead of the 550 = primaries=20 I currently have.  If that dosen't work, the 2200 RPM will have = to be the=20 idle speed.
 
 
I have some tuning issues, but not that = one. Mine=20 idles great at about 800, and runs great above 2000.  Between=20 those RPM's I have issues, but I think that it's because I tuned = the=20 engine with a good sized air leak.  I'm going back to default, = and=20 starting over.
 
Steve Brooks
Cozy MKIV N75CZ
Turbo Rotary  =
 
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