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Todd,
Just a suggestion, would a custom (flat) fly wheel
give any extra room.
George (down under)
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Sunday, May 03, 2009 7:14 PM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Harley Davidson
Generator
I just spent another hour measuring and thinking and tinkering.
I overestimated how much I can gain by moving the steel hub to the backside of
the dampener plate. It will only gain me 5/32", but the rivet heads are
another 3/32" so these can be changed to countersunk rivet heads to give me a
total additional clearance of 1/4", which will also facilitate mounting the
rotor to the dampener plate. This will give me 1 7/16" clearance to fit in the
rotor.
A closer look at the rotor shows that the
magnets are completely to the back edge of the rotor cup, so there is no
further machining of this possible. I don't expect the magnets would stand up
to any machining very well. However the face of the stator cup is 3/16" thick
so I could take 3/32" off this face. Since it will be mounted directly to the
dampener face it won't be driven by the splined shaft, so this should be fine.
This should make the stator 1 27/64" thick giving me clearance of 1/64".
Cutting it pretty darned close but it should work.
My
biggest concern is that the steel center hub of the dampener plate that mates
with the splined input shaft is moved back resulting in 11/32" less spline
contact, from an original 1 13/16" down to 1 5/8" of spline contact. "Should"
be enough? Might have to get a "special" input shaft?
About the only
other thing that I see that might be necessary is a slight circular groove on
the back of the RD-1 mount plate to allow a little more clearance for the
windings on the stator. This might not be required however the windings are
not perfectly equal around the stator, with the occasional one needing a
little more clearance. This circular groove would only have to be slight and
would be located within the circle of bolts for the RD-1 so would have no
issues with interference or compromising strength.
For those
interested in weight (and why not) the stator and rotor weigh a combined 6.17
lbs
Todd
C-FSTB
On Sat, 2009-05-02 at 23:06 -0700, Todd
Bartrim wrote:
Hi Ernest, Kelly and others;
I
promised myself I wasn't going to do any experimenting this time around, but
here I go again.....
Today I went down to the local Harley shop and lost
$381cad. And I just have the rotor and stator to show for it. I still need
to buy the regulator, but I figure I shouldn't throw that money away until I
can definitively make this work. Kelly, you probably did the right thing by
ordering from Compu-Fire, but there is something to be said for holding the
parts in your hand and fitting & measuring it first. The store owner is
also a pilot and was quite helpful when I told him what it was for. These
are genuine Harley parts, so surely I paid for that privilege as
well.
Stator 32amp #29970-88DHD
Rotor #29957-81BHD
Unfortunately, while I think I can make this work, it
ain't gonna be easy. It's going to require a few mods to the RD-1 mounting
plate and to the flex plate dampener. The rotor will also require some
alterations. This rotor is 1.52" thick and the space currently available
between the dampener and the mount plate is 1 3/16". And the edge of the
rotor also lines up with the ring of bolt heads holding the RD-1 together.
To accommodate this I plan to countersink these bolt heads so they are flush
with the mount plate. There also needs to be a path for the stator wire to
pass under the edge of the rotor. I plan to machine a slot 3/16" deep x 1/4"
wide x 1.5" long into the backside of the mount plate. There will have to be
several mount bolts to fasten the stator in place which will pass through
the mount plate into the oil filled internals of the RD-1. I plan to drill
these holes and then machine an o-ring groove under the bolt heads. I
believe these will be located in an area where they will not interfere with
the sun gear so they will not need to be countersunk. That should be all
that's required of the mount plate, but that still only leaves 1 3/16" to
fit in a 1.52" thick rotor.
The rotor will require the
splined center to be enlarged to fit over the dampener. I'll have this done
on a lathe and while it's on there, I'll have a little taken off both the
face and the back edge. I'll gain very little here, but I'll also ensure
that they are true.
Now the dampener is where I think
I can make the required gains. The steel center hub is riveted to the front
side of the aluminium dampener plate. I think I can relocate this hub to the
back side of the dampener plate. This should give me an extra 3/8" to work
with. The backside of the center hub on this dampener plate will likely have
to have 1/8" taken off the center to allow for the flywheel nut, but there
is lots of material here. This part is a little hard to describe so I'll
take pics as I go. And surely there'll be something I'm overlooking. But I'm
betting $381 that I can do it.
This will require the
services of a machinist and as luck would have it, the latest guy I signed
onto play on my hockey team happens to be a machinist out at the mill I work
at. So I'll get him working on some of this next
week.
Todd
C-FSTB
On Sat, 2009-05-02 at 23:53 +0000,
Kelly Troyer wrote:
Ernest and
Todd,
Ernest what is output amps
of the system that you bought ??.............I just sprung for
the
"Compu-Fire" 40 amp system................Link
attached...............Sure hope it works as it is
fairly
pricey................I have plenty of room for it since I am using a auto
trans bell housing
between engine and RD1C
redrive.............
http://www.compufire.com/harley-main.html
--
Kelly
Troyer
"Dyke Delta"_13B ROTARY Engine
"RWS"_RD1C/EC2/EM2
"Mistral"_Backplate/Oil Manifold
-------------- Original message from Ernest Christley
<echristley@nc.rr.com>: --------------
> Todd
Bartrim wrote:
> > Thanks for the quick reply Ernest. I didn't
expect you up so late on
> > your side of the continent.
> I've been trying to get a business going. Selling software for
the
> sport of wrestling. It seems like I don't ever sleep
anymore.
>
> > Is yours a genuine Harley part?
>
No. It's an aftermarket part.
> > How about dimensions?
> > -OD of the rotor
> Just over 6". You'll want at
least 6.25" for clearance. From memory,
> ID is just over 1.5" I
believe. It's a fairly tight fit on the sun gear
> shaft. I
believe the shear bolts are a 4" spacing.
>
> > -ID of
the stator
> It's all put together, so that number is rather
difficult to come by
> right now. I believe it is right at 3".
I'm thinking the bolt circle
> was 3.375" diameter, but I'm going
to have to reserve the right to be wrong.
> > -Thickness
> 1.75"
>
>
> I fabricated a fiberglass
shield that sits between the stator and PSRU.
> The object being
to keep trash out of the rotor.
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