In a message dated 7/5/2007 9:41:21 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
eanderson@carolina.rr.com writes:
Looking for help here from the expert rebuilders. I just put the
engine back in after the re-build and used silicone on the front cover oil
passage instead of the o-ring and nylon....
I seem to remember having done that last time, and it worked fine.
I think I did it last time for some sort of good reason, but now I cant think
of any good reason not to use the o-ring. Then in the middle of the
night I realized that the oil pressure there is probably quite high, and that
is mostly a big gap to fill....
Do any of you experts use silicone there instead of an o-ring?
--
David Leonard
No.
That junction has killed hundreds of rotaries. The high oil pressure and a
very flexible front housing just allows the housing to flex forward and part of
the "O" ring escapes from the boss, and with only part of the "O" ring trapped,
holding that junction open, there is little to no oil pressure. You can but in
the later (thicker) "O" ring with the nylon back up washer trapped in the
junction to keep the "O" ring in place.
Or, just install a copper or aluminum ring to replicate the thick "O" ring.
It is rigid, so it cannot deform and hold open the junction. It will not deform
or blow out. It is cheap and lasts as long as the engine. Make the metal ring
stand 1/16" proud of the boss. It doesn't matter if you use a gasket for the
cover or not.
If you don't like problems like this in an airplane, You can drill out the
plug in the end of the lateral gallery that runs under this connection and is
the drilling that forms this gallery.
Use A boss and "O" ring connection because a tapered pipe fitting will
split the thin walled casting.
If you go that way, build a disc to fit the problem junction. If you still
run the OMP, drill a .020" hole through the center of this disc, so the OMP will
be supplied oil.
No amount of sealant will work. You need that "O" ring and backup washer.
Or better.
Lynn E. Hanover