X-Virus-Scanned: clean according to Sophos on Logan.com Return-Path: Received: from imo-d05.mx.aol.com ([205.188.157.37] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 5.1.10) with ESMTP id 2160678 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Thu, 05 Jul 2007 22:11:58 -0400 Received-SPF: pass receiver=logan.com; client-ip=205.188.157.37; envelope-from=Lehanover@aol.com Received: from Lehanover@aol.com by imo-d05.mx.aol.com (mail_out_v38_r9.2.) id q.ccc.159a66d6 (29672) for ; Thu, 5 Jul 2007 22:11:18 -0400 (EDT) From: Lehanover@aol.com Message-ID: Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2007 22:11:18 EDT Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: Front Cover Oil Passage To: flyrotary@lancaironline.net MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="-----------------------------1183687878" X-Mailer: 9.0 Security Edition for Windows sub 5366 X-Spam-Flag: NO -------------------------------1183687878 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 7/5/2007 9:41:21 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, eanderson@carolina.rr.com writes: Looking for help here from the expert rebuilders. I just put the engine back in after the re-build and used silicone on the front cover oil passage instead of the o-ring and nylon.... I seem to remember having done that last time, and it worked fine. I think I did it last time for some sort of good reason, but now I cant think of any good reason not to use the o-ring. Then in the middle of the night I realized that the oil pressure there is probably quite high, and that is mostly a big gap to fill.... Do any of you experts use silicone there instead of an o-ring? -- David Leonard No. That junction has killed hundreds of rotaries. The high oil pressure and a very flexible front housing just allows the housing to flex forward and part of the "O" ring escapes from the boss, and with only part of the "O" ring trapped, holding that junction open, there is little to no oil pressure. You can but in the later (thicker) "O" ring with the nylon back up washer trapped in the junction to keep the "O" ring in place. Or, just install a copper or aluminum ring to replicate the thick "O" ring. It is rigid, so it cannot deform and hold open the junction. It will not deform or blow out. It is cheap and lasts as long as the engine. Make the metal ring stand 1/16" proud of the boss. It doesn't matter if you use a gasket for the cover or not. If you don't like problems like this in an airplane, You can drill out the plug in the end of the lateral gallery that runs under this connection and is the drilling that forms this gallery. Use A boss and "O" ring connection because a tapered pipe fitting will split the thin walled casting. If you go that way, build a disc to fit the problem junction. If you still run the OMP, drill a .020" hole through the center of this disc, so the OMP will be supplied oil. No amount of sealant will work. You need that "O" ring and backup washer. Or better. Lynn E. Hanover ************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com. -------------------------------1183687878 Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

In a message dated 7/5/2007 9:41:21 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,=20 eanderson@carolina.rr.com writes:

<= FONT=20 style=3D"BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" face=3DArial color=3D#000000 size= =3D2>

Looking for help here from the expert rebuilders. I just put th= e=20 engine back in after the re-build and used silicone on the front cover oil= =20 passage instead of the o-ring and nylon....

I seem to remember having done that last time, and it worked fine.&nb= sp;=20 I think I did it last time for some sort of good reason, but now I cant th= ink=20 of any good reason not to use the o-ring. Then in the middle of the=20 night I realized that the oil pressure there is probably quite high, and t= hat=20 is mostly a big gap to fill....

Do any of you experts use silicone there instead of an o-ring?
--
David Leonard

No.

That junction has killed hundreds of rotaries. The high oil pressure an= d a=20 very flexible front housing just allows the housing to flex forward and part= of=20 the "O" ring escapes from the boss, and with only part of the "O" ring trapp= ed,=20 holding that junction open, there is little to no oil pressure. You can but=20= in=20 the later (thicker) "O" ring with the nylon back up washer trapped in the=20 junction to keep the "O" ring in place.

Or, just install a copper or aluminum ring to replicate the thick "O" r= ing.=20 It is rigid, so it cannot deform and hold open the junction. It will not def= orm=20 or blow out. It is cheap and lasts as long as the engine. Make the metal rin= g=20 stand 1/16" proud of the boss. It doesn't matter if you use a gasket for the= =20 cover or not.

If you don't like problems like this in an airplane, You can drill out=20= the=20 plug in the end of the lateral gallery that runs under this connection and i= s=20 the drilling that forms this gallery.

Use A boss and "O" ring connection because a tapered pipe fitting will=20 split the thin walled casting.

If you go that way, build a disc to fit the problem junction. If you st= ill=20 run the OMP, drill a .020" hole through the center of this disc, so the OMP=20= will=20 be supplied oil.

No amount of sealant will work. You need that "O" ring and backup washe= r.=20 Or better.

Lynn E. Hanover

See w= hat's free at AOL.= com.

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