Mailing List flyrotary@lancaironline.net Message #37731
From: <Lehanover@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] For Lynn....Freshening 13B Side Housings
Date: Thu, 7 Jun 2007 16:07:24 EDT
To: <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
In a message dated 6/7/2007 3:37:12 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, keltro@att.net writes:
Lynn,
  After embarrising(sp) myself not knowing what a "DA" was I now need some more
info about your method of resurfacing the 13B side housings.......I am now the proud
owner of a "Harbor Freight" "dual action random orbital sander".......I carefully filed
away the info you gave previously and cannot remember what grit of sanding disc
you recommended......Also would like to know how you attack the housings with
the "DA".......Do you keep the sander flat or at an angle while sanding ?......I do
realize that I need to be gentle and just put an even polish pattern on the housing......
Also I remember that I need to do the sanding wet with kerosene and finish with
a good soap and water rinse.......Any other helpful hints will be appreciated .......
 
Thanks,
--
Kelly Troyer
"Dyke Delta"_13B ROTARY Engine
"RWS"_RD1C/EC2/EM2
"Mistral"_Backplate/Oil Manifold
I use old fashioned pad cement to glue on 240 wet or dry silicone carbide paper. It acts like a thick contact cement. Just back and forth stripes quickly and clamp in the paper and give it a twist to spread the glue around, than lift an edge and blow on the glue to get it curing, then push the paper back on. Nothing else will touch the Nitride surface.  I run it flat only, and flooded with kerosene or number 2 diesel. Just to keep the paper clean and cutting well. The idea is to add thousands of oil holding circles.
 
Make no attempt to reduce the material along side the wear mark in th middle of the combustion side, where the sides seals wear off the most material. Wear over .006" should
indicate a regrind and or lap job. Engines will run perfectly well with more wear but start to use oil and loose compression.
 
Just use the same time and pressure everywhere, and all will be well. Use a propane torch on the abrasive face to release the pad glue. This was standard operating procedure in body shops around for years. Now the hook and loop stuff and pre-glued pads are taking over. But nobody makes silicone carbide in hook and loop (yet).
 
Make sure the DA is set on orbital instead of grind. The DA in this case means Dual Action.
I didn't know that for years and used one every day. I thought it was a brand name.
 
Lynn E. Hanover




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