X-Virus-Scanned: clean according to Sophos on Logan.com Return-Path: Received: from imo-m27.mx.aol.com ([64.12.137.8] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 5.1.9) with ESMTP id 2089868 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Thu, 07 Jun 2007 16:08:02 -0400 Received-SPF: pass receiver=logan.com; client-ip=64.12.137.8; envelope-from=Lehanover@aol.com Received: from Lehanover@aol.com by imo-m27.mx.aol.com (mail_out_v38_r9.2.) id q.bce.172fe91e (43930) for ; Thu, 7 Jun 2007 16:07:24 -0400 (EDT) From: Lehanover@aol.com Message-ID: Date: Thu, 7 Jun 2007 16:07:24 EDT Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] For Lynn....Freshening 13B Side Housings To: flyrotary@lancaironline.net MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="-----------------------------1181246844" X-Mailer: 9.0 Security Edition for Windows sub 5366 X-Spam-Flag: NO -------------------------------1181246844 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 6/7/2007 3:37:12 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, keltro@att.net writes: Lynn, After embarrising(sp) myself not knowing what a "DA" was I now need some more info about your method of resurfacing the 13B side housings.......I am now the proud owner of a "Harbor Freight" "dual action random orbital sander".......I carefully filed away the info you gave previously and cannot remember what grit of sanding disc you recommended......Also would like to know how you attack the housings with the "DA".......Do you keep the sander flat or at an angle while sanding ?......I do realize that I need to be gentle and just put an even polish pattern on the housing...... Also I remember that I need to do the sanding wet with kerosene and finish with a good soap and water rinse.......Any other helpful hints will be appreciated ....... Thanks, -- Kelly Troyer "Dyke Delta"_13B ROTARY Engine "RWS"_RD1C/EC2/EM2 "Mistral"_Backplate/Oil Manifold I use old fashioned pad cement to glue on 240 wet or dry silicone carbide paper. It acts like a thick contact cement. Just back and forth stripes quickly and clamp in the paper and give it a twist to spread the glue around, than lift an edge and blow on the glue to get it curing, then push the paper back on. Nothing else will touch the Nitride surface. I run it flat only, and flooded with kerosene or number 2 diesel. Just to keep the paper clean and cutting well. The idea is to add thousands of oil holding circles. Make no attempt to reduce the material along side the wear mark in th middle of the combustion side, where the sides seals wear off the most material. Wear over .006" should indicate a regrind and or lap job. Engines will run perfectly well with more wear but start to use oil and loose compression. Just use the same time and pressure everywhere, and all will be well. Use a propane torch on the abrasive face to release the pad glue. This was standard operating procedure in body shops around for years. Now the hook and loop stuff and pre-glued pads are taking over. But nobody makes silicone carbide in hook and loop (yet). Make sure the DA is set on orbital instead of grind. The DA in this case means Dual Action. I didn't know that for years and used one every day. I thought it was a brand name. Lynn E. Hanover ************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com. -------------------------------1181246844 Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
In a message dated 6/7/2007 3:37:12 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,=20 keltro@att.net writes:
<= FONT=20 style=3D"BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" face=3DArial color=3D#000000 size= =3D2>
Lynn,
  After embarrising(sp) myself not knowing what a "DA" was I now= =20 need some more
info about your method of resurfacing the 13B side housings.......I a= m=20 now the proud
owner of a "Harbor Freight" "dual action random orbital sander"......= .I=20 carefully filed
away the info you gave previously and cannot remember what grit of=20 sanding disc
you recommended......Also would like to know how you attack the housi= ngs=20 with
the "DA".......Do you keep the sander flat or at an angle while sandi= ng=20 ?......I do
realize that I need to be gentle and just put an even polish=20 pattern on the housing......
Also I remember that I need to do the sanding wet with kerosene and=20 finish with
a good soap and water rinse.......Any other helpful hints will be=20 appreciated .......
 
Thanks,
--
Kelly Troyer
"Dyke Delta"_= 13B=20 ROTARY Engine
"RWS"_RD1C/EC2/EM2
"Mistral"_Backplate/Oil Manifold=20
I use old fashioned pad cement to glue on 240 wet or dry silicone carbi= de=20 paper. It acts like a thick contact cement. Just back and forth stripes quic= kly=20 and clamp in the paper and give it a twist to spread the glue around, than l= ift=20 an edge and blow on the glue to get it curing, then push the paper back on.=20 Nothing else will touch the Nitride surface.  I run it flat only, and=20 flooded with kerosene or number 2 diesel. Just to keep the paper clean and=20 cutting well. The idea is to add thousands of oil holding circles.
 
Make no attempt to reduce the material along side the wear mark in th=20 middle of the combustion side, where the sides seals wear off the most mater= ial.=20 Wear over .006" should
indicate a regrind and or lap job. Engines will run perfectly well with= =20 more wear but start to use oil and loose compression.
 
Just use the same time and pressure everywhere, and all will be well. U= se a=20 propane torch on the abrasive face to release the pad glue. This was standar= d=20 operating procedure in body shops around for years. Now the hook and loop st= uff=20 and pre-glued pads are taking over. But nobody makes silicone carbide in hoo= k=20 and loop (yet).
 
Make sure the DA is set on orbital instead of grind. The DA in this cas= e=20 means Dual Action.
I didn't know that for years and used one every day. I thought it was a= =20 brand name.
 
Lynn E. Hanover



See w= hat's free at AOL.= com.
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