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Re: [FlyRotary] flywheel
weight?
When I was running the Ross
gearbox I broke 3 of the dampers in 100 hrs and then I made a 16 lb
flywheel that made it very smooth and eliminated the damper problems
and gave better climb out power.
When I first started running
my cog belt unit I tried running without a flywheel but just didn't
like the vibrations so I went back to a 16 lb flywheel and again it
made it very smooth and gave more power.
With that said my suggestion is for
a 16 lb flywheel but I know you will not like them
numbers.
Ken Welter
Greetings,
Yes, I'm trying to
avoid spending too much time on this, but I'm tempted to try adding
more significant flywheel weight to the single rotor, to see it it
will behave better. I realized this isn't an ideal solution to
an already heavy engine, but it might still be worth
trying.
My question is how
much weight should I add to make sure this will get rid of the torque
reversal issues?
I understand that
weight added farther out from the center has more effect than weight
close to the center. Ideally, I would plan to make a ring, with
about an 11" OD (or as large as I can without interfering with
the starter ring), and about 7" ID. This would bolt to the
redrive side of the dampener plate, using the existing 7/16"
bolts. I made an estimate of the weight of steel, by
measuring the volume of a 4130 plate, and weighing it. The
result was 4.5 oz per cu in. My best estimate is that I can get
close to 10 lbs, using a half inch thick piece of steel.
Unfortunately, this will be quite time consuming, and tough to
fabricate, balance, etc.
The other option is to
try to add more weight than I did before at the 4 bolt locations.
This is a much easier plan to implement, but I'm afraid I'll be lucky
to get 5 lbs added using this method.
Anyone want to take a
swag at how well this would work?
Thanks,
Rusty (resistance is
futile)
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