X-Virus-Scanned: clean according to Sophos on Logan.com Return-Path: Received: from vms044pub.verizon.net ([206.46.252.44] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 5.0.6) with ESMTP id 935289 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Sat, 21 Jan 2006 00:21:53 -0500 Received: from [63.24.104.207] by vms044.mailsrvcs.net (Sun Java System Messaging Server 6.2-4.02 (built Sep 9 2005)) with ESMTPA id <0ITF002BTG831F50@vms044.mailsrvcs.net> for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Fri, 20 Jan 2006 23:21:44 -0600 (CST) Date: Fri, 20 Jan 2006 21:21:35 -0800 From: Ken Welter Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] flywheel weight? In-reply-to: To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" Message-id: MIME-version: 1.0 Content-type: multipart/alternative; boundary="============_-1074301592==_ma============" References: --============_-1074301592==_ma============ Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" ; format="flowed" When I was running the Ross gearbox I broke 3 of the dampers in 100 hrs and then I made a 16 lb flywheel that made it very smooth and eliminated the damper problems and gave better climb out power. When I first started running my cog belt unit I tried running without a flywheel but just didn't like the vibrations so I went back to a 16 lb flywheel and again it made it very smooth and gave more power. With that said my suggestion is for a 16 lb flywheel but I know you will not like them numbers. Ken Welter >Greetings, > >Yes, I'm trying to avoid spending too much time on this, but I'm >tempted to try adding more significant flywheel weight to the single >rotor, to see it it will behave better. I realized this isn't an >ideal solution to an already heavy engine, but it might still be >worth trying. > >My question is how much weight should I add to make sure this will >get rid of the torque reversal issues? > >I understand that weight added farther out from the center has more >effect than weight close to the center. Ideally, I would plan to >make a ring, with about an 11" OD (or as large as I can without >interfering with the starter ring), and about 7" ID. This would >bolt to the redrive side of the dampener plate, using the existing >7/16" bolts. I made an estimate of the weight of steel, by >measuring the volume of a 4130 plate, and weighing it. The result >was 4.5 oz per cu in. My best estimate is that I can get close to >10 lbs, using a half inch thick piece of steel. Unfortunately, this >will be quite time consuming, and tough to fabricate, balance, etc. > >The other option is to try to add more weight than I did before at >the 4 bolt locations. This is a much easier plan to implement, but >I'm afraid I'll be lucky to get 5 lbs added using this method. > >Anyone want to take a swag at how well this would work? > >Thanks, >Rusty (resistance is futile) --============_-1074301592==_ma============ Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" Re: [FlyRotary] flywheel weight?
   When I was running the Ross gearbox I broke 3 of the dampers in 100 hrs and then I made a 16 lb flywheel that made it very smooth and eliminated the damper problems and gave better climb out power.
   When I first started running my cog belt unit I tried running without a flywheel but just didn't like the vibrations so I went back to a 16 lb flywheel and again it made it very smooth and gave more power.
  With that said my suggestion is for a 16 lb flywheel but I know you will not like them numbers.
  Ken Welter
 




Greetings,
 
Yes, I'm trying to avoid spending too much time on this, but I'm tempted to try adding more significant flywheel weight to the single rotor, to see it it will behave better.  I realized this isn't an ideal solution to an already heavy engine, but it might still be worth trying. 
 
My question is how much weight should I add to make sure this will get rid of the torque reversal issues? 
 
I understand that weight added farther out from the center has more effect than weight close to the center.  Ideally, I would plan to make a ring, with about an 11" OD (or as large as I can without interfering with the starter ring), and about 7" ID.  This would bolt to the redrive side of the dampener plate, using the existing 7/16" bolts.   I made an estimate of the weight of steel, by measuring the volume of a 4130 plate, and weighing it.  The result was 4.5 oz per cu in.  My best estimate is that I can get close to 10 lbs, using a half inch thick piece of steel.  Unfortunately, this will be quite time consuming, and tough to fabricate, balance, etc. 
 
The other option is to try to add more weight than I did before at the 4 bolt locations.  This is a much easier plan to implement, but I'm afraid I'll be lucky to get 5 lbs added using this method. 
 
Anyone want to take a swag at how well this would work? 
 
Thanks,
Rusty (resistance is futile)

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