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Bill, Ed, Feathers, Larry, Grease, John & All

Like Bill, my canopy is constructed with logeron overlap on both the inside and outside forming the channel he described.  It also has additional stiffening between the forward tilting hinges because the pressure from the gas springs wants to squeeze the lower forward corners into the deck sides.  I have a p-strip at the forward edge of the deck joggle which is squeezed by the canopy leading edge when the canopy is closed.  The lower 6 inches has the aft part of the p-strip taped over with teflon tape (how do they get it to stick?) to allow the final closing to slide without curling the seal.  About 1 inch back from the leading edge of the canopy, on the inside, is another strip of p-strip which seals against the trailing edge of the deck joggle when the canopy is closed.  Double p-strip is attached to the canopy channel first mentioned here and thence up the back face of the canopy rollover.  Regardless of the channel to hold the canopy sides from ballooning out, I have the original 1/8 inch thick canopy glass, not the later 3/16 that is stiffer and quieter.  The thinner material allows the ballooning to shorten the canopy in flight. I like the idea of flexible quarter-round (or ever round) in the canopy body/rollover intersection  --  I will have to try that. BTW, I also use the teflon tape on the fuselage sides where the rear of the canopy slides when closed and also on the top of the fuselage rollover joggle to eliminate "squeaking" from paint-to-paint contact -- noisy when taxiing.

Grayhawk

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