lml@lancaironline.net Mailing List Archive

Shane: Here's what I would do different if I were building my LNC2 today (I bought my plane already built and flying): - no header tank, use the space for forward-hinged canopy and avionics & electrical ala Dan Olsen http://w2.lancair.net/pic/olsen-construction/HPIM0099.sized.jpg. Much easier to access all the junk on the back of the firewall and in the footwells (i.e. brake master cylinders, rudder cable connections, etc.). - add extended range wing tanks and use slosh doors in all tanks. - plumb 3/8" fuel lines direct from wing tanks to L-OFF-R (no "BOTH," you'll suck air!) fuel valve mounted ahead of spar between pilot's legs then to the electric fuel pump mounted in front of the spar between the pax's legs. Gravity is your friend when wanting to ensure the electric pump is primed. See http://lancaironline.net/lists/lml/Message/22183.html for my logic on plumbing the fuel system. - use spring-biased systems for all trims (this is mostly of an aesthetic and drag issue, eliminates trim tabs on or in the control surfaces). I happen to like the lever-operated spring-biased pitch trim arrangement as you can make big, quick trim adjustments during configuration changes, plus eliminates the need for a pitch trim indicator. I also like the idea of being able to trim the airplane manually in case of electrical failure. Here are a couple of examples of how to set up servo-operated spring-biased systems http://www.lancaironline.net/archives/ail-trim.zip http://www.lancaironline.net/archives/lnc2atrim.jpg. - make access panels in the seat backs so you can get to the flap actuator and hydraulic pump (mount behind pax seat as Bob Smiley suggests). - divide your instrument panel into sub-panels made from healthy aluminum sheet, which you can have CNCed for less than $200 if you supply the layout in a CAD file. The factory-supplied plastic panel is flimsy and doesn't lend itself to future modification as sub-panels would. Also, if you include service loops in your wiring, you can pull out a sub-panel to get at the back of instruments, switches and breakers much, much easier than having to remove the glare shield and come at them from above (I have to remove three engine instruments and the autopilot head to get to the back of my breakers!). - build your landing and taxi lights into the wing leading edges towards the outboard ends of the wings (one light in each wing) so that you can use them for recognition without having to lower the gear and you can use a wig-wag circuit. These little airplanes are hard to see for both other traffic and the tower. - check all the SBs on Lancair's site http://www.lancair-kits.com/service_bulletins.html. - I like Bob Smiley's idea about the map pocket in the console, but I would at least include map/checklist pockets on the upholstery trim panels next to the pilot's left knee and the pax's right knee. If your instrument layout allows for it, I would include a "glove box" in the right sub-panel for all that stuff (fuel tester, granola bars, wallet (you do carry your pilot cert. medical cert., picture ID, credit card for gas and emergencies with you every time you fly, don't you!?!?), etc.) that in my plane tends to collect on the baggage area floor. The console would be another good place for such a box. - fly your plane before you paint it or do the upholstery. I guaran-damn-tee you will want to change something after you've flown for awhile. - get Bob Nuckolls' AeroElectric Connection http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/pub/pub.html#aec9 and read it before starting work on your plane. Plan your electrical system early in the build process so you can anticipate wiring and component location issues. My airplane has numerous compromises in the electrical system due to the builder not even thinking about wiring or component location until the airframe was almost completely finished. I don't think there's a wire in the airplane that doesn't have at least one butt splice! Some have several! There are four firewall penetrations for wires. - pay close attention to the openings in the wing root closeout ribs for flap and aileron rods and the inner gear door cylinders. You are going to want to seal these upon completion as they are a major source of noise, cold air infiltration during the winter, and (potentially) carbon monoxide. Here's one example of how to do it http://www.lancaironline.net/archives/Dcp00412.jpg. - plan on painting the interior of the cockpit (at least the floor) before mounting components. I'd use white or light gray. It looks much more professional, makes it easier to spot fuel and hydraulic leaks and is easier to keep clean. - take every opportunity you can get to study others' completed airplanes, and not just Lancairs (I'm probably going to catch hell for this, but we CAN learn something from Glasairs and even RVs!). Get the owners to pull up the seat pans and uncowl the engine compartment if you can. Better yet, if they kept a good photo log of their construction, see if they will share it with you. There are lots of builder's photo logs on the web. Study them. Here are two of the best I have seen... http://w1.lancair.net/pix/shannon http://www.lancairlegacy.com/my_kit.html I envy you. Someday I hope to build a Lancair myself, most likely a Legacy, although the idea of building the fastest four-cylinder LNC2 on the planet sort of appeals to me. Lee Metcalfe N320WH - 520 hrs. - Kansas City