Sender: <marv@lancaironline.net> (Marvin Kaye)
To: lml@lancaironline.net
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2004 17:29:47 -0500
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Subject: [LML] New 360 Project
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From: "Metcalfe, Lee, AIR" <Lee.Metcalfe@jocogov.org>

Shane:

Here's what I would do different if I were building my LNC2 today (I
bought my plane already built and flying):

- no header tank, use the space for forward-hinged canopy and avionics &
electrical ala Dan Olsen
http://w2.lancair.net/pic/olsen-construction/HPIM0099.sized.jpg.  Much
easier to access all the junk on the back of the firewall and in the
footwells (i.e. brake master cylinders, rudder cable connections, etc.).

- add extended range wing tanks and use slosh doors in all tanks.

- plumb 3/8" fuel lines direct from wing tanks to L-OFF-R (no "BOTH,"
you'll suck air!) fuel valve mounted ahead of spar between pilot's legs
then to the electric fuel pump mounted in front of the spar between the
pax's legs.  Gravity is your friend when wanting to ensure the electric
pump is primed.  See
http://lancaironline.net/lists/lml/Message/22183.html for my logic on
plumbing the fuel system.

- use spring-biased systems for all trims (this is mostly of an
aesthetic and drag issue, eliminates trim tabs on or in the control
surfaces).  I happen to like the lever-operated spring-biased pitch trim
arrangement as you can make big, quick trim adjustments during
configuration changes, plus eliminates the need for a pitch trim
indicator.  I also like the idea of being able to trim the airplane
manually in case of electrical failure.  Here are a couple of examples
of how to set up servo-operated spring-biased systems
http://www.lancaironline.net/archives/ail-trim.zip
http://www.lancaironline.net/archives/lnc2atrim.jpg.

- make access panels in the seat backs so you can get to the flap
actuator and hydraulic pump (mount behind pax seat as Bob Smiley
suggests).

- divide your instrument panel into sub-panels made from healthy
aluminum sheet, which you can have CNCed for less than $200 if you
supply the layout in a CAD file.  The factory-supplied plastic panel is
flimsy and doesn't lend itself to future modification as sub-panels
would.  Also, if you include service loops in your wiring, you can pull
out a sub-panel to get at the back of instruments, switches and breakers
much, much easier than having to remove the glare shield and come at
them from above (I have to remove three engine instruments and the
autopilot head to get to the back of my breakers!).

- build your landing and taxi lights into the wing leading edges towards
the outboard ends of the wings (one light in each wing) so that you can
use them for recognition without having to lower the gear and you can
use a wig-wag circuit.  These little airplanes are hard to see for both
other traffic and the tower.

- check all the SBs on Lancair's site
http://www.lancair-kits.com/service_bulletins.html.

- I like Bob Smiley's idea about the map pocket in the console, but I
would at least include map/checklist pockets on the upholstery trim
panels next to the pilot's left knee and the pax's right knee.  If your
instrument layout allows for it, I would include a "glove box" in the
right sub-panel for all that stuff (fuel tester, granola bars, wallet
(you do carry your pilot cert. medical cert., picture ID, credit card
for gas and emergencies with you every time you fly, don't you!?!?),
etc.) that in my plane tends to collect on the baggage area floor.  The
console would be another good place for such a box.

- fly your plane before you paint it or do the upholstery.  I
guaran-damn-tee you will want to change something after you've flown for
awhile.

- get Bob Nuckolls' AeroElectric Connection
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/pub/pub.html#aec9 and read it before
starting work on your plane.  Plan your electrical system early in the
build process so you can anticipate wiring and component location
issues.  My airplane has numerous compromises in the electrical system
due to the builder not even thinking about wiring or component location
until the airframe was almost completely finished.  I don't think
there's a wire in the airplane that doesn't have at least one butt
splice!  Some have several!  There are four firewall penetrations for
wires.

- pay close attention to the openings in the wing root closeout ribs for
flap and aileron rods and the inner gear door cylinders.  You are going
to want to seal these upon completion as they are a major source of
noise, cold air infiltration during the winter, and (potentially) carbon
monoxide.  Here's one example of how to do it
http://www.lancaironline.net/archives/Dcp00412.jpg.

- plan on painting the interior of the cockpit (at least the floor)
before mounting components.  I'd use white or light gray.  It looks much
more professional, makes it easier to spot fuel and hydraulic leaks and
is easier to keep clean.

- take every opportunity you can get to study others' completed
airplanes, and not just Lancairs (I'm probably going to catch hell for
this, but we CAN learn something from Glasairs and even RVs!).  Get the
owners to pull up the seat pans and uncowl the engine compartment if you
can.  Better yet, if they kept a good photo log of their construction,
see if they will share it with you.  There are lots of builder's photo
logs on the web.  Study them.  Here are two of the best I have seen...
http://w1.lancair.net/pix/shannon
http://www.lancairlegacy.com/my_kit.html

I envy you.  Someday I hope to build a Lancair myself, most likely a
Legacy, although the idea of building the fastest four-cylinder LNC2 on
the planet sort of appeals to me.

Lee Metcalfe
N320WH - 520 hrs. - Kansas City