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Message
I would try aluminum tape for radiation shedding
of the turbo after shutdown. Just apply it to the cowl wherever you want some shielding.
It is sold in almost any hardware,
and is designed for high temps.
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ALUMINUM TAPE
Aluminum foil tape with self-adhesive backing seals seams
and joint openings when installing insulation. Forms a superior bond to
lock out air and moisture. Resistant to weather and temperature extremes.
2"W. Available in 30 ft. and 150 ft.
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Recommended
Accessories
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Item
Description
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Unit
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SKU#
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Price
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Qty.
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Order
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Aluminum Foil Tape, 150-ft. Length
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Each
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ZX814608Y
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$13.95
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Aluminum Foil Tape, 30-ft. Length
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Each
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ZX814607P
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$4.95
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Alex Madsen
-----Original Message-----
From: Rotary motors in aircraft
[mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net] On
Behalf Of Steve Brooks
Sent: Sunday, May 23, 2004 8:54 AM
To: Rotary motors in aircraft
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Two
problems solved, 2 more pop up...
Rusty, I
now know what you mean about cooked items under the cowl. I have been
doing a lot of running with the cowl on lately. Luckily cooling is no
longer an issue. Can run more than an hour under 2300 RPM with occasion
bursts up to 35 MAP for up to 15 sec without overheating. The big key in
that was running 80% water antifreze and some water wetter. Oil temps
never a problem.
New
problem: melt down after shut down. That turbo has a lot of very
hot mass. I flow enough air through the cowl when running to keep things
cool. Right after shut down the cowl is just luke warm to the
touch. But 5 min after shutting down the turbo side of the cowl is too
hot to touch on the top and I can smell resin. It gets a little soft
to tap on it and it is starting to look a little mottled and maybe yellow
(if I let my immagineation run away). I have seen a couple of RVs with
drop down hatches in the top cowl to let heat out after shut down. Does
anyone have an idea about how hot I can let the fiberglass get? Bright
Ideas?
I have the
same problem, sort of. I put some thin stainless, about like thick foil,
on the top and bottom cowling above and below the turbo. I was more
interested in radiant heat getting to it in flight, but it also works well for
the heat after shut down. I just put it on with 100% silicone
rubber. The cowling still gets pretty warm, but not hot.
New Problem:
RMI tach no good. According to my RMI engine monitor I have about 4300
RPM at 24 MAP. At 29 MAP I still only have about 4500 RPM and at 35 MAP I
am still at 4500 RPM static. I dont buy it because it sure sounds
different (faster). So I have to install an accessory
Tachometer.... Tracy, where was the Engine Monitor when I was building
the pannel? :-) I still have holes in my mixture map as
every now and then I pass through a hole and the mixture goes all haywire.
Like John
mentioned, I used a pulse divider as well. I couldn't get a reliable
reading using the 12 pulse output. I divide by 6 using a CMOS divider,
which puts out pulses equivalent to a 4 cylider engine. Most tachs will
take that. If you want I can look up the part number for the IC I used,
but I think that it was a CD4060.
Old problem
still not fixed: Low RPM: to keep it running it needs to be rich, so much
that I billow smoke down 400 yrds of hangars. It comes out in billows
every 2-3 seconds. Above 2200 RPM there are no problems (never
were). Will be trying some 460cc injectors instead of the 550 primaries I
currently have. If that dosen't work, the 2200 RPM will have to be the
idle speed.
I have some
tuning issues, but not that one. Mine idles great at about 800, and runs great
above 2000. Between those RPM's I have issues, but I think that it's
because I tuned the engine with a good sized air leak. I'm going back to
default, and starting over.
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