Return-Path: Received: from envelope.rose-hulman.edu ([137.112.8.21] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 4.2b3) with ESMTP-TLS id 85807 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Sun, 23 May 2004 11:50:45 -0400 Received: from madsena (dhcp024-160-213-196.ma.rr.com [24.160.213.196]) (authenticated (0 bits)) by envelope.rose-hulman.edu (8.11.6/8.11.6) with ESMTP id i4NFoWk21378 (using TLSv1/SSLv3 with cipher RC4-MD5 (128 bits) verified NO) for ; Sun, 23 May 2004 10:50:40 -0500 (EST) From: "Alex Madsen" To: "'Rotary motors in aircraft'" Subject: RE: [FlyRotary] Re: Two problems solved, 2 more pop up... Date: Sun, 23 May 2004 10:49:49 -0500 Message-ID: <000401c440dd$98d39650$f166fea9@madsena> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/related; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0005_01C440B3.AFFD8E50" X-Priority: 3 (Normal) X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook, Build 10.0.2627 Importance: Normal In-Reply-To: X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V6.00.2800.1409 This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C440B3.AFFD8E50 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_001_0006_01C440B3.B003A8D0" ------=_NextPart_001_0006_01C440B3.B003A8D0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I would try aluminum tape for radiation shedding of the turbo after shutdown. Just apply it to the cowl wherever you want some shielding. It is sold in almost any hardware, and is designed for high temps. ALUMINUM TAPE Aluminum foil tape with self-adhesive backing seals seams and joint openings when installing insulation. Forms a superior bond to lock out air and moisture. Resistant to weather and temperature extremes. 2"W. Available in 30 ft. and 150 ft. Recommended Accessories Item Description Unit SKU# Price Qty. Order Aluminum Foil Tape, 150-ft. Length Each ZX814608Y $13.95 Buy Aluminum Foil Tape, 30-ft. Length Each ZX814607P $4.95 Buy Alex Madsen -----Original Message----- From: Rotary motors in aircraft [mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net] On Behalf Of Steve Brooks Sent: Sunday, May 23, 2004 8:54 AM To: Rotary motors in aircraft Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Two problems solved, 2 more pop up... Rusty, I now know what you mean about cooked items under the cowl. I have been doing a lot of running with the cowl on lately. Luckily cooling is no longer an issue. Can run more than an hour under 2300 RPM with occasion bursts up to 35 MAP for up to 15 sec without overheating. The big key in that was running 80% water antifreze and some water wetter. Oil temps never a problem. New problem: melt down after shut down. That turbo has a lot of very hot mass. I flow enough air through the cowl when running to keep things cool. Right after shut down the cowl is just luke warm to the touch. But 5 min after shutting down the turbo side of the cowl is too hot to touch on the top and I can smell resin. It gets a little soft to tap on it and it is starting to look a little mottled and maybe yellow (if I let my immagineation run away). I have seen a couple of RVs with drop down hatches in the top cowl to let heat out after shut down. Does anyone have an idea about how hot I can let the fiberglass get? Bright Ideas? I have the same problem, sort of. I put some thin stainless, about like thick foil, on the top and bottom cowling above and below the turbo. I was more interested in radiant heat getting to it in flight, but it also works well for the heat after shut down. I just put it on with 100% silicone rubber. The cowling still gets pretty warm, but not hot. New Problem: RMI tach no good. According to my RMI engine monitor I have about 4300 RPM at 24 MAP. At 29 MAP I still only have about 4500 RPM and at 35 MAP I am still at 4500 RPM static. I dont buy it because it sure sounds different (faster). So I have to install an accessory Tachometer.... Tracy, where was the Engine Monitor when I was building the pannel? :-) I still have holes in my mixture map as every now and then I pass through a hole and the mixture goes all haywire. Like John mentioned, I used a pulse divider as well. I couldn't get a reliable reading using the 12 pulse output. I divide by 6 using a CMOS divider, which puts out pulses equivalent to a 4 cylider engine. Most tachs will take that. If you want I can look up the part number for the IC I used, but I think that it was a CD4060. Old problem still not fixed: Low RPM: to keep it running it needs to be rich, so much that I billow smoke down 400 yrds of hangars. It comes out in billows every 2-3 seconds. Above 2200 RPM there are no problems (never were). Will be trying some 460cc injectors instead of the 550 primaries I currently have. If that dosen't work, the 2200 RPM will have to be the idle speed. I have some tuning issues, but not that one. Mine idles great at about 800, and runs great above 2000. Between those RPM's I have issues, but I think that it's because I tuned the engine with a good sized air leak. I'm going back to default, and starting over. Steve Brooks Cozy MKIV N75CZ Turbo Rotary ------=_NextPart_001_0006_01C440B3.B003A8D0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Message

I would try aluminum tape for = radiation shedding of the turbo after shutdown. Just apply it to the cowl wherever you want = some shielding.  It is sold in almost any = hardware, and is designed for high temps.

 

ALUMINUM TAPE =

Aluminum foil tape with self-adhesive backing seals = seams and joint openings when installing insulation. Forms a superior = bond to lock out air and moisture. Resistant to weather and temperature = extremes. 2"W. Available in 30 ft. and 150 ft. =

 

 

 

Recommended Accessories

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Item Description

Unit

SKU#

Price<= /p>

Qty.

Order<= /p>

Aluminum Foil Tape, 150-ft. = Length

Each=

ZX814608Y=

$13.95

Aluminum Foil Tape, 30-ft. = Length

Each=

ZX814607P=

$4.95

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Alex Madsen =

 

-----Original = Message-----
From: Rotary motors in = aircraft [mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net] On Behalf Of Steve Brooks
Sent: Sunday, May 23, = 2004 8:54 AM
To: Rotary motors in = aircraft
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: = Two problems solved, 2 more pop up...

 

Rusty,  I now know what you mean about cooked items under the cowl.  I have = been doing a lot of running with the cowl on lately.  Luckily cooling is = no longer an issue.  Can run more than an hour under 2300 RPM with = occasion bursts up to 35 MAP for up to 15 sec without overheating.  The big = key in that was running 80% water antifreze and some water wetter.  Oil = temps never a problem.

 

New problem:  melt down after shut down.  That turbo has a lot of = very hot mass.  I flow enough air through the cowl when running to keep = things cool.  Right after shut down the cowl is just luke warm to the touch.  But 5 min after shutting down the turbo side of the cowl is = too hot to touch on the top and I can smell resin.  It gets a = little soft to tap on it and it is starting to look a little mottled and maybe = yellow (if I let my immagineation run away).  I have seen a couple of RVs = with drop down hatches in the top cowl to let heat out after shut down.  = Does anyone have an idea about how hot I can let the fiberglass get?  = Bright Ideas?

 

I = have the same problem, sort of.  I put some thin stainless, about like thick = foil, on the top and bottom cowling above and below the turbo.  I was = more interested in radiant heat getting to it in flight, but it also works = well for the heat after shut down.  I just put it on with 100% silicone rubber.  The cowling still gets pretty warm, but not = hot.

 

 

 

New = Problem: RMI tach no good.  According to my RMI engine monitor I have about = 4300 RPM at 24 MAP.  At 29 MAP I still only have about 4500 RPM and at = 35 MAP I am still at 4500 RPM static.  I dont buy it because it sure sounds different (faster).  So I have to install an accessory Tachometer....  Tracy, where was the Engine Monitor when I was = building the pannel?  :-)    I still have holes in my mixture = map as every now and then I pass through a hole and the mixture goes all = haywire.

 

Like John mentioned, I used a pulse divider as well.  I couldn't get a = reliable reading using the 12 pulse output.  I divide by 6 using a CMOS = divider, which puts out pulses equivalent to a 4 cylider engine.  Most tachs = will take that.  If you want I can look up the part number for the IC I = used, but I think that it was a CD4060.

 

 

 

Old = problem still not fixed:  Low RPM: to keep it running it needs to be rich, = so much that I billow smoke down 400 yrds of hangars.  It comes out in = billows every 2-3 seconds.  Above 2200 RPM there are no problems (never were).  Will be trying some 460cc injectors instead of the 550 = primaries I currently have.  If that dosen't work, the 2200 RPM will have to be = the idle speed.

 

 

I = have some tuning issues, but not that one. Mine idles great at about 800, and runs = great above 2000.  Between those RPM's I have issues, but I think = that it's because I tuned the engine with a good sized air leak.  I'm going = back to default, and starting over.

 

Steve = Brooks

Cozy MKIV N75CZ

Turbo Rotary 

 

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