Ed;
If your in the market for BID you really dont want to use anything less

3Oz, as the weave fills in with reasin and you save no weight.  This
according to Marshall's Composite Basics.

If there is a Cozy you, you can get a yard or two of 8.5 OZ BID.  If not

me know.  I would be glad to sent you a few yards.

----- Original Message ----- From: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Sent: Saturday, May 22, 2004 2:59 PM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Fiberglass Help!


Thanks, Steve

    Clearly BID is the way to go and dump the tape.  I see you had your
second flight, keep two things in mind, you are running boost (producing

and yet are flying at fairly slow speeds - the worst of cooling

I have climb at 120 MPH IAS if I am running full throttle in order to keep
the temps stabilized.  In almost all cases, if you are totally cool for

off then you are over cooled for cruise.  Given the OAT temps, I wouldn't
worry about it (at least not yet).  Wait until you get the airspeed up to
your normal climb speed and see what that does.

Keep your test program advancing incrementally as you are doing and you

get all the bugs out soonest.

Regarding the surge, MOST of the time the rotary will show surge when the
air/Fuel mixture is too lean.

Ed

Ed Anderson
RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
Matthews, NC
  ----- Original Message -----   From: Steve Brooks
  To: Rotary motors in aircraft
  Sent: Saturday, May 22, 2004 2:27 PM
  Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Fiberglass Help!


  Ed,
  Having built A Cozy, I learned a couple thing about fiberglass.  First

all for complex curves, you need to use BID cloth,  It will flex and

to most shapes.  Also, I would definitely use the BID from a roll (like
fabric), and definitely not BID tape, which has a bound edge.  Also cut

selvedge edge off of the BID cloth.  If you have any areas that have

BID, just cut a dart in it, to remove the excess cloth.  Try to get the
excess on the next layer in a different spot if possible.

  Keep you epoxy warm.  Heat it with a lamp, if you're doing it in the
morning.  I used MGS, and loved it.  It is thin, wets out good, and has a
very high TG ratio.
  If you have another epoxy already, just warm it up to get it thin, and
brush it on sparingly.  You want it to wet out, but definitely not running
off.  Brush it on, and then hit any white spots with a little more.

  If you're doing 3 layers, wet in your first two, but when you put on the
3rd, don't add any more epoxy.  Stipple it with the brush.  Using a hair
dryer will help pull the epoxy up the the new layer.  If you have any

spots left that just won't wet out.  Use just a dab of epoxy.

  My .02

  Steve Brooks

    -----Original Message-----
    From: Rotary motors in aircraft [mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net]On
Behalf Of Ed Anderson
    Sent: Saturday, May 22, 2004 9:52 AM
    To: Rotary motors in aircraft
    Subject: [FlyRotary] Fiberglass Help!


    Ok, you fiberglass types.  I need some guidance. I can (and have)
slapped resin on glass cloth and obtained a functional (if heavy) item.
However, I am about to start work on my new radiator ducts and I would

to do better.  My ducts will be approx. 4"x4" at the inlet and approx.
9"x10" at the core.  There might be as much as 1 psi pressure on the walls
(if I should ever be so lucky to go that fast).

    There a some semi compound curves at the corners of the duct as it
slopes inward from the top and bottom from the core to the inlet.

    I need your recommendation about the weight and weave of the cloth.  I
have previously used the cloth tape as it was easy to manage, but it
required several layers and it is a bit heavy.  Like I said functional but
not pretty nor light.

    I would like your guidance on how best to apply the sheet to the mold.
In the past, I basically wrap the foam mold in duct tape and the lay resin
on it followed by raps of the cloth tape and more resine.  I am told that
using sheet rather than the tape and first laying it out on aluminum foil

wet it and then cut it in sizes say to fit a side of the 4 side foam mold
with a bit for overlap with the adjacent sides was one way to go.

    Any suggestions would be appreciated.

    Ed


    Ed Anderson
    RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
    Matthews, NC



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