Message-ID: <003001c44037$a8d11470$2402a8c0@EDWARD>
From: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
References: <list-84660@logan.com>
Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: Fiberglass Help!
Date: Sat, 22 May 2004 16:02:06 -0400
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Hi , Eric

   Thanks for the advise, I order the 3 3/4 oz bid cloth (whew just in under
the wire) from Aircraft Spruce.  Yes, Jim Brewer, local builder has already
offered up some cloth - you canard guys are not all that bad {:>), but I had
already place the order.  I know where to beg for scraps the next time I
need fiberglass {:>).

Ed

Ed Anderson
RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
Matthews, NC
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Eric Ruttan" <ericruttan@chartermi.net>
To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Sent: Saturday, May 22, 2004 3:12 PM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Fiberglass Help!


> Ed;
> If your in the market for BID you really dont want to use anything less
than
> 3Oz, as the weave fills in with reasin and you save no weight.  This
> according to Marshall's Composite Basics.
>
> If there is a Cozy you, you can get a yard or two of 8.5 OZ BID.  If not
let
> me know.  I would be glad to sent you a few yards.
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
> To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
> Sent: Saturday, May 22, 2004 2:59 PM
> Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Fiberglass Help!
>
>
> Thanks, Steve
>
>     Clearly BID is the way to go and dump the tape.  I see you had your
> second flight, keep two things in mind, you are running boost (producing
HP)
> and yet are flying at fairly slow speeds - the worst of cooling
conditions.
> I have climb at 120 MPH IAS if I am running full throttle in order to keep
> the temps stabilized.  In almost all cases, if you are totally cool for
take
> off then you are over cooled for cruise.  Given the OAT temps, I wouldn't
> worry about it (at least not yet).  Wait until you get the airspeed up to
> your normal climb speed and see what that does.
>
> Keep your test program advancing incrementally as you are doing and you
will
> get all the bugs out soonest.
>
> Regarding the surge, MOST of the time the rotary will show surge when the
> air/Fuel mixture is too lean.
>
> Ed
>
> Ed Anderson
> RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
> Matthews, NC
>   ----- Original Message ----- 
>   From: Steve Brooks
>   To: Rotary motors in aircraft
>   Sent: Saturday, May 22, 2004 2:27 PM
>   Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Fiberglass Help!
>
>
>   Ed,
>   Having built A Cozy, I learned a couple thing about fiberglass.  First
of
> all for complex curves, you need to use BID cloth,  It will flex and
contour
> to most shapes.  Also, I would definitely use the BID from a roll (like
> fabric), and definitely not BID tape, which has a bound edge.  Also cut
the
> selvedge edge off of the BID cloth.  If you have any areas that have
excess
> BID, just cut a dart in it, to remove the excess cloth.  Try to get the
> excess on the next layer in a different spot if possible.
>
>   Keep you epoxy warm.  Heat it with a lamp, if you're doing it in the
> morning.  I used MGS, and loved it.  It is thin, wets out good, and has a
> very high TG ratio.
>   If you have another epoxy already, just warm it up to get it thin, and
> brush it on sparingly.  You want it to wet out, but definitely not running
> off.  Brush it on, and then hit any white spots with a little more.
>
>   If you're doing 3 layers, wet in your first two, but when you put on the
> 3rd, don't add any more epoxy.  Stipple it with the brush.  Using a hair
> dryer will help pull the epoxy up the the new layer.  If you have any
white
> spots left that just won't wet out.  Use just a dab of epoxy.
>
>   My .02
>
>   Steve Brooks
>
>     -----Original Message-----
>     From: Rotary motors in aircraft [mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net]On
> Behalf Of Ed Anderson
>     Sent: Saturday, May 22, 2004 9:52 AM
>     To: Rotary motors in aircraft
>     Subject: [FlyRotary] Fiberglass Help!
>
>
>     Ok, you fiberglass types.  I need some guidance. I can (and have)
> slapped resin on glass cloth and obtained a functional (if heavy) item.
> However, I am about to start work on my new radiator ducts and I would
like
> to do better.  My ducts will be approx. 4"x4" at the inlet and approx.
> 9"x10" at the core.  There might be as much as 1 psi pressure on the walls
> (if I should ever be so lucky to go that fast).
>
>     There a some semi compound curves at the corners of the duct as it
> slopes inward from the top and bottom from the core to the inlet.
>
>     I need your recommendation about the weight and weave of the cloth.  I
> have previously used the cloth tape as it was easy to manage, but it
> required several layers and it is a bit heavy.  Like I said functional but
> not pretty nor light.
>
>     I would like your guidance on how best to apply the sheet to the mold.
> In the past, I basically wrap the foam mold in duct tape and the lay resin
> on it followed by raps of the cloth tape and more resine.  I am told that
> using sheet rather than the tape and first laying it out on aluminum foil
to
> wet it and then cut it in sizes say to fit a side of the 4 side foam mold
> with a bit for overlap with the adjacent sides was one way to go.
>
>     Any suggestions would be appreciated.
>
>     Ed
>
>
>     Ed Anderson
>     RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
>     Matthews, NC
>
>
>
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