Just obey the rules for pressure vessels. No flat surfaces. Round or oval
with slightly concave or convex end caps. Two layers of .015" stainless
with a 3/8" spacer between. Can be tubing or bent up end flaps. Works fine for
insulating exhaust from intake. Engine likes exhaust runners straight out from
port for as long a run possible before the first bend. About 2" to 2 1/8" ID.
Stainless. Carbon steel will fail eventually. Exactly the same length for each
header. About 30"to 36" to the collector. Same for intake runners. Same size as
port face ID. As long a straight run as is possible after last bend. So if
possible a long taper from bell mouth down to port opening. You can Siamese the
runners and just have two intake runners to deal with. You want the highest
possible velocity at the port face. 245 HP Drumond 12A use a nearly stock intake
manifold gasket.
Very small runners at the port face.
Lynn E. Hanover
In a message dated 6/14/2016 6:37:47 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
flyrotary@lancaironline.net writes:
Mine was over the exhaust but I found that a radiant shield was enough.
I've used thin stainless steel (.007") or aluminum over a thin
layer of un epoxied fiberglass on the bottom of the plenum was enough
protection.
It's the straight runners to the plenum that make
it easy to build.
Tracy
Sent from my iPad
Something to remember an airbox like that must be on the "cold
side" of the engine. Don't put it over the exhaust.
Bill
=