The rotary when parked has the exhaust ports open to the exhaust system. So the inside of the engine is available to mice and spiders and air with moisture in it. So every so often an apex seal will get rusted into the slot and after one revolution will stick in the lowest position in its cycle. Then you have a low compression on one or both rotors. Note that one leaking apex seals affects two combustion chambers.

 

Another problem is that the rotor has what is in effect 21 end gaps in its piston ring. So it leaks pretty fast when cold. So, cranking speed is important. The faster it turns on the starter the less time there is to leak and the more likely there will be a start. The rotor is large and cold, so heat of compression is important. That is controlled by compression ratio, air temperature, cranking speed and rotor seal.

 

So, if a compression check shows one or both rotors way down, just squirt in some Dextron II transmission oil, spin the engine a few revolutions and let it sit for a few days. You can also check the apex seal for movement by poking it through the leading plug hole.

If one goes down but does not come back up, it is sticking. Use a wood dowel.

 

For starting fluid: most are solvents and work fine in piston engines, but remove oil from the side and apex seals, making for a poor seal in the rotary and reducing the chance for a start.

 

Mix 50/50 motor oil and gasoline in an oil can. Seals the engine up tight for a few revolutions and takes up some volume thus raising the compression ratio and heat of compression and thus vaporization.

 

Squirt it into the leading (lower) plug hole. There will be smoke along with the noise.  

 

When not in use, cover the exhaust outlet on all IC engines.

 

Lynn E. Hanover

 

 

 

It's ether.  Used forever to start diesels and nasty cars.
Greg W.