I just had another thought:
You might consider trying another 13b flexplate, but using a more comprehensive test for cracks before you put it in service.
Look the candidate flexplates over with a magifying glass, then, if they pass, use dye penetrant test or magnetic particle testing?
What I'm getting at here, is that your failed unit may have been flawed before you put it in service.
After finding a flex plate that passes, spend some time de-burring and polishing the stress zones based on the failed flex plate's cracks; that is to say, where you think the failures may have started.
-----Original Message-----
From: David Leonard <wdleonard@gmail.com>
To: Rotary motors in aircraft <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Sent: Sun, Jul 17, 2011 9:21 pm
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Ok Here are the important flywheel measurements
That is not a bad idea while I have it all apart, as I have not changed them out yet. Inspection does not show anything that looks like a smoking rivet.
On Sun, Jul 17, 2011 at 2:17 PM, Tracy
<rwstracy@gmail.com> wrote:
a kelly wrote:
.Did you replace the
aluminum rivets in your RD1X damper plate with steel bolts ?..............I seem to remember that
you did after several dampers (and yours) experienced alum streaking around the rivets...........
Just FYI to the group, the change I settled on for the damper rivets was to use -AD rivets instead of -A. The tensile strength is about 3 times higher on the -AD.
Tracy
Sent from my iPad
.Did you replace the
aluminum rivets in your RD1X damper plate with steel bolts ?..............I seem to remember that
you did after several dampers (and yours) experienced alum streaking around the rivets...........