Mailing List flyrotary@lancaironline.net Message #52587
From: <Lehanover@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: Headers
Date: Mon, 18 Oct 2010 21:02:22 EDT
To: <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
In a message dated 10/18/2010 10:03:46 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, bbradburry@bellsouth.net writes:

Where does the Dutch clamp go?  Around the double cuff?  Wont that negate the “slip”?

 

Bill B

The Dutch clamp was just to show what a Dutch Clamp was, for a question many years ago. You can crush a pipe with those things. Go easy.
 
The tabs get a flat strip of steel with slightly over sized holes for movement. The strips go through the center of the stiff springs. The springs hold the strips in place. If the spring breaks anywhere but the last bend, the spring stays on the strip. The exhaust is retained in all cases. Or, with three holes. A doubled run of safety wire goes through the spring using one set of holes. The springs use a second set of holes, and strips use the last set with Jet nuts left just snug. In all cases, the spring and exhaust system is retained if one or two systems fail.
 
Unless there is way too much back pressure, connections close to the engine are below ambient pressure, and any leak will allow cool air into the system.
 
I used GE silicone for a gasket between the flange and the engine. The uneven heating of the tubing invites failure. The tubes squirm like a bag of snakes when heated. They will all bent toward the blast tube if you have one. I used .135" wall pipe for headers. About 1 7/8" ID. Collector about 24" along. Notice that some companies have the flange as one piece. This keeps the tubes next to the engine stable and flat.
 
I heat wrapped a set of Racing Beat headers long before I could tune an engine. They turned to dust.
 
I got a million of them.......
 
Lynn E. Hanover
 
 
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