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As I recall, the Jet Hot coating for my
exhaust manifold and turbo cost about $350 when I had it done a few years ago. So far, it is holding up well after 50 hours
of flying over the last year.
Bob
From: Rotary motors in
aircraft [mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net] On
Behalf Of Kelly Troyer
Sent: Wednesday, August 25, 2010
9:36 AM
To: Rotary motors in aircraft
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Turbo
Questions
offers two stainless shields for the "On
Center" turbine housing (a little pricy) that may help...........Also Bob
2000F coating said to be good up to 2450F............Bob
said it lowers undercowl temps significantly...........
Bob if you read this can you tell us your flight hours and
cost and how it is standing up.................
T4
Stainless Turbo Heat Shield
T4 Stainless Steel Heat Sheild Finally they are here!
Conceal that ugly and rusting turbine housing with this beautiful heat shield.
Not only do they look incredible, but they will help reduce under hood
temperatures dramatically! These are designed to work on most T4 turbocharger
turbine housings 0.58 - 0.96 A/R TANG and On-Center. Easy bolt on installation!
Made from laser cut 304 Stainless steel, tig welded/show polished in house. We
have T3 heat shields in stock also. Reg Price $139.95 Made in the USA - Show
Polished 304 Stainless Steel 2 Year warranty!
$79.95 
Turbonetics
Heat Shields
Great for decreasing under hood temperatures, and holding in
all that thermal energy! Protect under hood components!
$102.75 
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JET-HOT 2000 is formulated for very high
temperatures. This rugged coating protects substrates up to 2,450°F,
heat levels sometimes encountered in Rodding and Off-Road applications. It
is available in black or grey and has a gritty and rough texture to
it. It can withstand higher temperatures than the EXTREME
STERLING. Some turbo applications see exhaust temps over the 1,700ºF
limit of EXTREME STERLING, so the JET-HOT 2000 will work better for those
types of vehicles. This coating is only done in our Oklahoma City facility.
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Kelly Troyer
"Dyke Delta"_13B ROTARY Engine
"RWS"_RD1C/EC2/EM2
"Mistral"_Backplate/Oil Manifold
From: James
Maher <delta11xd@att.net>
To: Rotary motors in aircraft
<flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Sent: Wed, August 25, 2010 8:41:37
AM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Turbo
Questions
Depending on its proximity to the exhaust, you may
want to replace the aluminum heat shield with a stainless steel one.
I too had an aluminum heat shield between the
exhaust and intake manifolds that melted on the first flight and was found in
globs in the bottom of the cowling.
My setup was a tangential muffler inside the cowl,
not a turbo.
This was after nearly 20 hours of ground running
without any problems.
Jim Maher
--- On Wed, 8/25/10, shipchief@aol.com <shipchief@aol.com>
wrote:
From: shipchief@aol.com <shipchief@aol.com>
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Turbo Questions
To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Date: Wednesday, August 25, 2010, 1:25 AM
What about turbo
insulation. Dave Leonard, you mentioned it before, and I listened. Now I'm
ground running (3 hours!!) and under cowl temps after shutdown seem high. I
have the Van's foil sheeting on the inside of the cowl anywhere near the
turbo, a sewn insulation cover for the turbo that Dave said would be
insufficient, and some kevlar-like welder's drop cloth in a single wrap
around the turbo down pipe. The turbo header is bare with an aluminum heat
shield to keep direct radiant heat off the motor mount and lower intake
manifold. I'm afraid to insulate the header,as rotary exhaust temps are
challenging to 321 stainless steel.
Right now, I open the
oil door to let heat out after ground runs, and before addition of the foil,
I used to run the shop vac discharge hose in the cowl to move some air too. I
need a solution that would allow flying to another destination, not just back
to my hanger where a fan can cool the under-cowl area so the fiberglass
doesn't melt.
-----Original
Message-----
From: Kelly Troyer <keltro@att.net>
To: Rotary motors in aircraft <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Sent: Sat, Aug 21, 2010 9:10 am
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Turbo Questions
The only
possible downside I can see is turbine over-speed at
altitude.........Part of this equation
is based on what rpm
your engine will be turning at takeoff and cruise, the altitudes you
fly and
the psru ratio you
have (2.17 or 2.85) with the 2.85 probably averaging 600 to 1000 rpm
higher
for both takeoff and
cruise (fuel flow concerns may also be a personal factor)..........Also
your prop
is a factor depending
if it is fixed pitch or constant speed (or in-flight adjust such as my
"IVO").......
With an adjustable pitch prop you can load the engine at a
lower rpm and control turbo boost
with the throttle
while being careful to avoid detonation.........The bottom line is only
flight testing
can determine exactly
how your turbo will perform in your particular
installation..............Should
your .81 a/r ratio
turbine housing be a little too tight a .96 a/r ratio "On Center"
housing to fit your
"P" trim
(F1-65mm) turbine wheel is readily available for less than $300.00 and the .96
housing is
working well
for John Slade and his "IVO" equipped
"Cosy" ............
Let the group
know how all is working once you get her in the air !!.............FWIW
Kelly Troyer
"Dyke Delta"_13B ROTARY Engine
"RWS"_RD1C/EC2/EM2
"Mistral"_Backplate/Oil Manifold
From:
"shipchief@aol.com" <shipchief@aol.com>
To: Rotary motors in aircraft
<flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Sent: Wed, August 18, 2010
6:46:46 PM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Turbo
Questions
I
just checked my aircraft manual, and the Turbo has a .81 AR. That's pretty
tight for this group discussion. I guess we will see what happens as I run my
engine at higher power.
-----Original
Message-----
From: shipchief@aol.com
To: Rotary motors in aircraft <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Sent: Wed, Aug 18, 2010 3:49 pm
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Turbo Questions
I've been off the list
for a while (work) but today I safety wired the water pump pulley bolts, as
discussed in 'one thing leads to another'.
Then I ran my engine
for 40 minutes @ 1900 RPM. The low voltage that alerted me to the pully bolts
was still with me, so I ran the engine with the upper cowl off, and climbed
out of the cockpit to have a look.
I always sat in the
plane while running it before, so this was pretty informative. I ran it for a
while, more than 20 minutes watching the battery voltage slowly drop to
11.9 volts, still the engine ran sweet. I checked alternator output; it was
just battery voltage, so nothing. I hooked up a battery charger and kept
running so I could watch the belt, feel the intake manifold and turbo etc.
and look for problem areas. I'm feeling good about my installation becuase it
looks fairly neat and runs smooth and sweet. I'm beginning to feel that this
is going to be a success story. wink, wink, Tracy. I just need to finish the airplane
;)
I'm running a 60-1 P
trim compressor and .97 AR On-Center TO-4 turbine housing ( if
I recall correctly) with a water cooled bearing. I built the exhaust manifold
simply because the Fred Brease mount I bought would not accomodate the
cast iron Mazda Turbo manifold. I selected the On-Center turbine
because I wanted the design flexibility it offered, and in fact I was able to
mount the turbo with the exhaust oulet facing aft. The down pipe is very
short, the intake filter is directly on the turbo compressor, and to finally
get to my point, my turbo is direct mounted to the engine with a very short
but somewhat large volume 321 stainless manifold.
I decided to give up
all the waste gates, blow off valves, remote mounts, flex joints, etc. and
followed Kelly Johnson's addage: "Add Lightness and Simplicate".
I installed the
battery in the back of my RV-8 because RV-8's with Lycoming IO-360 &
constant speed props need to do this for CG reasons. I couldn't imagine my
13BT being lighter. Still, lightness is required, so I work at
it. All those accoutraments have there place, and maybe I will end
up needing some or all of them, but I decided to start with none of them and
go forth. I'll add what ever I end up needing.
My turbo air pipe is
somewhat long, but it does pass by the left side of the cowl where I could
mount an intercooler with air exit, so I have that as a possibility. If I
need a waste gate, I'll just cut a hole in the exhaust manifold and TIG weld
in a bypass pipe with or without some kind of valve....I have a spot in mind
for that too.
I may be over thinking
this whole thing, and that is part of why I build so slowly.
But I
do have 2.5 hours on the EM-2 hobbs
meter!!
-----Original
Message-----
From: George Lendich <lendich@aanet.com.au>
To: Rotary motors in aircraft <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Sent: Wed, Aug 18, 2010 2:03 pm
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Turbo Questions
Let us all know how
well it goes for you in the real world application. I can't help but feel we
are trying to fit a square peg in a round hole with Turbo application to
Aviation needs.
Personally for myself,
as I have stated before, I feel that I would use remote mounted turbo, like
some cars use (to reduce the heat and flow speed to the turbo) and feed
it from a bypass off the exhaust pipe. The by-pass could be controlled
manually, for (when required) application. A wastegate does the same
thing but the exhaust is taken right up to the turbo and carries the heat
with it. I think this would go a long way in controlling heat and over
spinning issues.
However you need the
necessary room to make this possible.
Well
I have bit the bullet and made my decision for a turbo............After much
research, talking to Bob
and John and
conferring with a "Turbonetics" dealer I have ordered a
TO4E-50 trim (compressor wheel),
wet bearing housing,
big shaft "Q" trim (F1-68mm) turbine wheel and 1.15 a/r ratio
turbine housing.........
The decision what size turbine wheel and a/r ratio housing was based on
the fact that the f1-68mm
turbine and 1.15 a/r
housing causes less exhaust back pressure than the smaller wheel (bigger
hole) and
will increase rpm
less as you increase altitude as opposed to the F1-65mm wheel plus the
1.15 a/r ratio
housing will slow
rpm increase for the same reason............
The
decision to go with the 50 trim compressor wheel (Like John) verses the
60-1 wheel (Like Bob) was
based the
"Flow Maps" of both wheels and my uneducated opinion that
the 50 trim wheel would be running
in a more efficient
area of the flow map base on the "Air Consumption Chart" (lbs per
min) of the 1.3L 13B
that I submitted to
the group in a previous post.............Of course for all practical purposes
there is probably
little discernible
difference between any of these turbo configurations mentioned.............
At least
I have livened up the forum for a while
!!............FWIW..................<:)
Kelly Troyer
"Dyke Delta"_13B ROTARY Engine
"RWS"_RD1C/EC2/EM2
"Mistral"_Backplate/Oil Manifold
From:
"Rogers, Bob J." <BRogers@FDIC.gov>
To: Rotary motors in aircraft
<flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Sent: Tue, August 17, 2010
5:20:49 PM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Turbo
Questions
Yes, I used the Jet-Hot 2000 coating,
shown at this link. http://www.jet-hot.com/headercoatings.html I think
that it is very effective to reduce heat in the engine compartment.
It is only applied at the Oklahoma City facility.
From: Rotary motors in aircraft [mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net] On Behalf Of Kelly Troyer
Sent: Tuesday, August 17, 2010
3:02 PM
To: Rotary motors in aircraft
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Turbo
Questions
Did you have
your turbine housing and exhaust pipe coated with heat resistant
coating and if so what
and where ??.............
Kelly Troyer
"Dyke Delta"_13B ROTARY Engine
"RWS"_RD1C/EC2/EM2
"Mistral"_Backplate/Oil Manifold
There is one pretty good picture of the
turbo installation (before radiator baffling) on our EAA Chapter 1246 website
at: http://www.eaa1246.org/projectsnplanesdisplay.asp?id=10&pic=190. ;
Because the oil drains from the turbo into a sump that is lower than the oil
pan, I must use an electric pump to transfer the oil back into the engine oil
pan. Attached is a view from the front, which shows the hoses and
tubing from the turbo compressor to the intercooler and back to the intake
manifold.
From: Rotary motors in aircraft [mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net] On Behalf Of Kelly Troyer
Sent: Monday, August 16, 2010
10:02 AM
To: Rotary motors in aircraft
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Turbo
Questions
I am
waiting on a clarification from "Turbonetics" as to what size
turbine wheel
would turn the
least rpm as altitude increases.............I know the turbine housing
a/r ratio is a big
factor effecting turbine rpm as we climb but it is not clear to me
how the turbine
wheel diameter and trim factor in.............Air density lessens with
altitude but I am
not smart enough to know if the larger or smaller turbine wheel
will have the highest
rpm because of this factor as we climb ??.........
Perhaps I am
being anal about this but and you are probably correct that that the
effect of a 3mm
diameter difference between the two turbine wheels is slight and
probably
inconsequential...........If any of our multi-talented group members would
like to shine some
light on this please jump in here !!..........
On another note
do you happen to have any photos of your 13B/turbo installation
during construction
that you would care to share with the group ??..........You have
a beautiful (to
Rotorheads) and well thought out installation which from your report
is working very well
and I am sure others of the group would like to plagiarize.....<:)
Kelly Troyer
"Dyke
Delta"_13B ROTARY Engine
"RWS"_RD1C/EC2/EM2
"Mistral"_Backplate/Oil
Manifold
I do not know which wheel is in my
turbo. I expect the larger wheel (68 mm) to turn a little more slowly,
since it has a larger surface area to absorb the exhaust, but it should not
make much difference. Either one should be OK. The Turbonetics
people can probably explain the performance differences between the two wheel
sizes.
From: Rotary motors in aircraft [mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net] On Behalf Of Kelly Troyer
Sent: Thursday, August 12, 2010
3:44 PM
To: Rotary motors in aircraft
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Turbo
Questions
Thanks much for
the info.................Just one more question..............Info from
"Turbonetics"
says the 1.15 a/r turbine housing is limited to the F1-65 mm or F1-68 mm
turbine wheel.......
Do you have
info as to what turbine wheel was installed in your 60-1 turbo
??..............
Kelly Troyer
"Dyke Delta"_13B ROTARY Engine
"RWS"_RD1C/EC2/EM2
"Mistral"_Backplate/Oil Manifold
I limit my takeoff power to no more than
42 “ of manifold pressure (“MP”),
usually just 40” . At altitudes of 5,000 feet and above, I generally
run no more than about 36 “ MP (15 GPH) and 180 knots. Engine RPM is
about 5,800. The turbo is capable of considerably more boost than this,
but I have to watch engine water and oil temps at higher power
settings. I do not want to run more than 200 degrees on oil or water
and prefer 180 degrees. I can maintain these temps (even on hot days)
with cowl flap settings from closed to full open as long as I keep the power
settings at or below those described above. One day, I climbed to
11,000 feet and my GPS groundspeed (with a slight tailwind) was 213
knots. MP was 36”, RPM 6,000. I have a 68” diameter x 84 pitch
Prince P-tip fixed pitch prop coupled to the RWS 2.17/1 reduction unit.
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