Mailing List flyrotary@lancaironline.net Message #39141
From: <Lehanover@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: Engine mounts
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2007 08:02:27 EDT
To: <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
In a message dated 8/23/2007 2:36:06 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, WRJJRS@aol.com writes:
Lynn,
I think the ultimate idea for a plate type mount is to use a drawn steel shape with indents for the lord mounts. Making the tooling for a short run for hydroforming wouldn't be that hard, and you make 20 as cheaply as 1. I would make the part the oil pan as well to save weight. That way you don't have the multiple gasket sandwich problem. Since the RX-8 pan is so shallow it would be an easy form. A bit pie-in-the-sky, but it would be a very elegant solution. Dry sump  inlet and outlets could be easily brazed on ...
Bill Jepson
I was going to suggest holding the TB on with garage door springs strung in from the rudder.................
 
I raced for years with the stock pump and a oil control try sandwiched between the pan and engine. I glued one stock gasket to the tray and one to the pan. Never had a leak. Under braking the entire oil supply will end up in the front case (cover) and oil pressure sags as you leave a corner.
 
I am not happy with the powdered metal oil pump parts. I saw an impeller turn back into powdered metal at a race track. Racing Beat sells a pump with heat treated rings and rotors, but they look to be powdered metal as well. So I don't know if that is even possible? Dry sump pumps have much bigger parts but also powdered metal.
 
The oil pan can be a short tray with a deep area located just about anywhere you might need to put it.
So, a narrow sump along one side of the engine would work as well as anything and leave as much room as you might need directly below the block. You could also bolt up a pan of your own design to the bottom of the mounting plate, and the plate would be the lowest part in the way of a radiator ducting system. That might be of some advantage.   
 
 
Lynn E. Hanover 




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