Years ago when building a Westsail, I used a black goop specifically manufactured for sealing electrical connections. It was similar to the tool dip stuff, I think. Anyway it did come in a small can with a brush attached to the screw-on lid and worked well. Chad, I'm curious about which dielectric grease you are referring to? Also, Corrosion Block (I think that's the name) in an aerisol can will kill any corrosion anywhere. It is non-conductive also. I spray it in the motor windings of saws and such if they've been left outside. Allen Slominski Houston, TX
Rotary motors in aircraft <flyrotary@lancaironline.net> wrote: Rotary motors in aircraft Digest #1715
1) Re: Sealing soldered connections. by Ben Schneider
2) Re: Sealing soldered connections. by "Joe Ewen" 3) Renesis fuel power fuel burn.. Question for Tracy by "Bobby J. Hughes" 4) Re: Sealing soldered connections. by 5) Re: Sealing soldered connections. by marv@lancair.net 6) Re: Sealing soldered connections. by Ernest Christley 7) Re: Sealing soldered connections. by Chad Robinson
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Date: Wed, 4 Apr 2007 05:24:30 -0700 (PDT) From: Ben Schneider <plumberben@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Sealing soldered
connections.
Bob,
Thanks for the info. I didn't know if it would be included in the group of sealants per the discussion or not. Actually Bob Knuckolls recommends using for that purpose in one of his little projects, so I figured it must be okay and proceeded to use it. But it sounded like someone or several have had bad experiences with this type of use. Good to know E6000 (shoe goo) is not a part of that group of materials. Thanks again.
Ben
From: "Joe Ewen" <jewen@comporium.net> Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: Sealing soldered connections. Date: Wed, 4 Apr 2007 08:45:17 -0400
Epoxies are used often in the electronics industry for potting/sealing electronic components (Example, some ignition modules.) I do not know for certain that there are no ill effects, but I have used 5 minute epoxy in several instances with no apparent (at least short term) ill effects. Perhaps someone else on the list has
more knowledge on the use of and or variations in the types of expoxies. Joe
----- Original Message ----- From: "Ben Schneider" To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" Sent: Wednesday, April 04, 2007 8:24 AM Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Sealing soldered connections.
> Bob, > > Thanks for the info. I didn't know if it would be included in the group > of sealants per the discussion or not. Actually Bob Knuckolls recommends > using for that purpose in one of his little projects, so I figured it must > be okay and proceeded to use it. But it sounded like someone or several > have had bad experiences with this type of use. Good to know E6000 (shoe > goo) is not a part of that group of materials. Thanks again. > > Ben > > > -- > Homepage: http://www.flyrotary.com/ > Archive and UnSub: >
http://mail.lancaironline.net:81/lists/flyrotary/List.html >
Subject: Renesis fuel power fuel burn.. Question for Tracy Date: Wed, 4 Apr 2007 09:37:12 -0600 From: "Bobby J. Hughes" <bhughes@qnsi.net>
Tracy, Do you have any revised data on your Renesis max fuel burn after fine tuning? You web site shows 20.8g per hour. If I remember correctly this was one of your early test flights. Thanks, Bobby J
Hughes (new engine mount, new intake, more fiberglass,err) Date: Wed, 4 Apr 2007 10:31:39 -0700 From: <cardmarc@charter.net> Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: Sealing soldered connections.
Dow Corning makes a non acetic acid sealant that does not affect aluminum and is used for sealing aircraft windows; I have a couple of tubes of it at home. Marc Wiese ---- Bob White wrote: > Hi Ben, > > I don't think you will have a problem with Shoe Goo. RTV, at least > most kinds of it, use acetic acid as a curing agent. That's what > gives it the vinegary smell and causes the corrosion. > > Bob W. > > On Tue, 3 Apr 2007 19:38:58 -0700 (PDT) > Ben Schneider
wrote: > > > All... > > > > Just the other day I read a post about not using certain sealants on > > electrical connections that you soldered (read: I soldered leads to my > > Renesis CAS and now wonder when I am going to get to the local Mazda > > dealer and order another) > > > > I soldered mine last week, and potted it with E6000 (shoe goo) Is that > > sealant corrosive to the connections? And if so, can I open it back up, > > clean up the terminals, and resolder the leads to the CAS and pot with > > something else? > > > > I tried to search the archives, but could not seem to find the right > > word combination on the subject. Thanks all. > > > > Ben Schneider > > Turning engine over with 2 batteries and a starter. Getting close to > > making noise. > > >
> -- > > Homepage: http://www.flyrotary.com/ > > Archive and UnSub: http://mail.lancaironline.net:81/lists/flyrotary/List.html > > > -- > N93BD - Rotary Powered BD-4 - http://www.bob-white.com > 3.8 Hours Total Time and holding > Cables for your rotary installation - http://www.roblinphoto.com/shop/ > > -- > Homepage: http://www.flyrotary.com/ > Archive and UnSub: http://mail.lancaironline.net:81/lists/flyrotary/List.html
From: marv@lancair.net Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: Sealing soldered connections. Date: Wed, 04 Apr 2007 15:21:50 -0400
Another good potting solution is the dip they sell for doing tool handles. Mask off the connector and do multiple dips and you not only pot the connectors but you build up a strain relief on the wires as well. FWIW.
<Marv>
<cardmarc@charter.net> wrote:
Dow Corning makes a non acetic acid sealant that does not affect aluminum and is used for sealing aircraft windows; I have a couple of tubes of it at home. Marc Wiese ---- Bob White <rlwhite@comcast.net> wrote: > Hi Ben, > > I don't think you will have a problem with Shoe Goo. RTV, at least > most kinds of it, use acetic acid as a curing agent. That's what > gives it the vinegary smell and causes the corrosion. > > Bob W.
Date: Wed, 04 Apr 2007 16:14:01 -0400 From: Ernest Christley <echristley@nc.rr.com> Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: Sealing soldered connections.
I've got a friend who designs and builds controls for industrial equipment. These often have to survive outside, or in otherwise harsh environments. He likes to pot his stuff in roofing caulk. Black stuff. Polyurethane based. Comes in
a caulking tube. Very cheap. Very durable. Sticks like an embarassing nickname.
marv@lancair.net wrote:
> Another good potting solution is the dip they sell for doing tool > handles. Mask off the connector and do multiple dips and you not only > pot the connectors but you build up a strain relief on the wires as > well. FWIW. > > > > > > > > wrote: > > Dow Corning makes a non acetic acid sealant that does not affect > aluminum and > is used for sealing aircraft windows; I have a couple of tubes of it > at home. > Marc Wiese > ---- Bob White wrote: > > Hi Ben, > > > > I don't think you will have a problem with Shoe Goo. RTV, at least > > most kinds of it, use acetic acid as a curing agent. That's what > > gives it the vinegary smell and causes the
corrosion. > > > > Bob W. > >-- > >Homepage: http://www.flyrotary.com/ > >Archive and UnSub: http://mail.lancaironline.net:81/lists/flyrotary/List.html >
-- ,|"|"|, Ernest Christley | ----===<{{(oQo)}}>===---- Dyke Delta Builder | o| d |o http://ernest.isa-geek.org | Date: Wed, 04 Apr 2007 22:55:38 -0400 From: Chad Robinson <crj@lucubration.com> Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: Sealing soldered connections.
Joe Ewen wrote: > Epoxies are used often in the electronics industry for potting/sealing > electronic components (Example, some ignition modules.) I do not know > for certain that there are no ill effects, but I have used 5 minute > epoxy in several instances with no apparent (at least short term) ill > effects. Perhaps someone else on the list has more knowledge on the > use of and or variations in the types of
expoxies. You can use epoxy but you have to be careful. The really strong ones, like composite layup resins (MGS, West, etc.) cure very hard and brittle, so they can develop sharp edges that can chafe wires. 5-min is much softer and more flexible but doesn't take heat as well.
I love the roofing caulk suggestion. Cheap, simple, about as weatherproof as you'll get. The silicone base should resist heat very well, so it should be suitable for engine compartment use (I'd only use epoxy in electronics elsewhere). I still worry about varieties though. A simple test is enough to tell you if you have an acetic-acid curing agent by the smell. If not, probably anything relatively flexible, silicone-based, and inexpensive is just fine. Shoo goo, caulk, whatever.
One recommendation. Just because it's sealed doesn't mean some air can't be trapped in there ahead of time. When connectors, not soldered joints, are involved, I
always recommend a dielectric grease applied to the terminals before attaching the connector. It keeps air and moisture away from the contacts.
Regards, Chad
Homepage: http://www.flyrotary.com/ Archive and UnSub: http://mail.lancaironline.net/lists/flyrotary/
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