Ed is right, the bungs must be Tig welded to reduce the amount of heat applied. When I had my cores welded I provided the welder with some heat absorbing paste-like material that I got from Garry Kingma to keep the seams from heating up too much. It worked. Although soaking wet towels would have probably done the same thing. The idea is to keep the heat from getting to the furnace brazed seams. Jim
Ed Anderson <eanderson@carolina.rr.com> wrote:
Ernest, you are right "Welding" on a bung could cause the seams to loosen
although a good TIG welder could do it. However, brazing on a bung uses
considerably lower temperatures - given the heat in that area, I personally
would not use epoxy. You can probably find a radiator shop
that can do the
job for you quite reasonably or use the HT200 aluminum brazing material if
you do it yourself..
Ed
Ed Anderson
Rv-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
Matthews, NC
eanderson@carolina.rr.com
http://members.cox.net/rogersda/rotary/configs.htm#N494BW
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ernest Christley"
To: "Rotary motors in aircraft"
Sent: Tuesday, July 18, 2006 2:34 PM
Subject: [FlyRotary] options for modifying radiator
> I've got to add a way to attach the in and out hoses to my radiator (I'm
> going to be using 3/4" hoses, Bobby). I've assumed that about the only
> way to do this would be to weld on a nipple. But pouring that much heat
> into a radiator presents the possibility of damaging it. Are there any
> other possibilites that don't involve heat? It would be neat if
> someone made a gasketed, threaded insert that
would expand when an NPT
> fitting is inserted. Insert it like a grommet, then add the fitting to
> lock it to the sides. An angled lip would pull the flange down onto the
> gasket. Anyone ever seen such a beast?
>
> --
> ,|"|"|, Ernest Christley |
> ----===<{{(oQo)}}>===---- Dyke Delta Builder |
> o| d |o http://ernest.isa-geek.org |
>
>
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