X-Virus-Scanned: clean according to Sophos on Logan.com Return-Path: Received: from web81009.mail.mud.yahoo.com ([68.142.199.89] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 5.1c.2) with SMTP id 1281798 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Tue, 18 Jul 2006 15:40:56 -0400 Received-SPF: none receiver=logan.com; client-ip=68.142.199.89; envelope-from=deltaflyer@prodigy.net Received: (qmail 76547 invoked by uid 60001); 18 Jul 2006 19:40:09 -0000 DomainKey-Signature: a=rsa-sha1; q=dns; c=nofws; s=s1024; d=prodigy.net; h=Message-ID:Received:Date:From:Subject:To:In-Reply-To:MIME-Version:Content-Type:Content-Transfer-Encoding; b=Y303Vc3TU0yUvMA/OIvRn5pMQjY3g4p2h6j1uMgkwKSlFbQmraVSpCPE221EkpffQfsULOzui8aUd8+7iT0CpsKkENXl3gBDSFlxpJEHRpY3dEO/lqaX/q6aU/ZJlEVPAROJyjAqT2iSzs77yz+wDJhCagRo0Khhp0qRVU/750w= ; Message-ID: <20060718194009.76543.qmail@web81009.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Received: from [199.231.49.128] by web81009.mail.mud.yahoo.com via HTTP; Tue, 18 Jul 2006 12:40:08 PDT Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2006 12:40:08 -0700 (PDT) From: James Maher Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: options for modifying radiator To: Rotary motors in aircraft In-Reply-To: MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="0-1818858119-1153251608=:66342" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit --0-1818858119-1153251608=:66342 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Ed is right, the bungs must be Tig welded to reduce the amount of heat applied. When I had my cores welded I provided the welder with some heat absorbing paste-like material that I got from Garry Kingma to keep the seams from heating up too much. It worked. Although soaking wet towels would have probably done the same thing. The idea is to keep the heat from getting to the furnace brazed seams. Jim Ed Anderson wrote: Ernest, you are right "Welding" on a bung could cause the seams to loosen although a good TIG welder could do it. However, brazing on a bung uses considerably lower temperatures - given the heat in that area, I personally would not use epoxy. You can probably find a radiator shop that can do the job for you quite reasonably or use the HT200 aluminum brazing material if you do it yourself.. Ed Ed Anderson Rv-6A N494BW Rotary Powered Matthews, NC eanderson@carolina.rr.com http://members.cox.net/rogersda/rotary/configs.htm#N494BW ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ernest Christley" To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" Sent: Tuesday, July 18, 2006 2:34 PM Subject: [FlyRotary] options for modifying radiator > I've got to add a way to attach the in and out hoses to my radiator (I'm > going to be using 3/4" hoses, Bobby). I've assumed that about the only > way to do this would be to weld on a nipple. But pouring that much heat > into a radiator presents the possibility of damaging it. Are there any > other possibilites that don't involve heat? It would be neat if > someone made a gasketed, threaded insert that would expand when an NPT > fitting is inserted. Insert it like a grommet, then add the fitting to > lock it to the sides. An angled lip would pull the flange down onto the > gasket. Anyone ever seen such a beast? > > -- > ,|"|"|, Ernest Christley | > ----===<{{(oQo)}}>===---- Dyke Delta Builder | > o| d |o http://ernest.isa-geek.org | > > -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- > -- > Homepage: http://www.flyrotary.com/ > Archive and UnSub: http://mail.lancaironline.net/lists/flyrotary/ > -- Homepage: http://www.flyrotary.com/ Archive and UnSub: http://mail.lancaironline.net/lists/flyrotary/ --0-1818858119-1153251608=:66342 Content-Type: text/html; charset=iso-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit

Ed is right, the bungs must be Tig welded to reduce the amount of heat applied.

When I had my cores welded I provided the welder with some heat absorbing paste-like material that I got from Garry Kingma to keep the seams from heating up too much. It worked.

Although soaking wet towels would have probably done the same thing.

The idea is to keep the heat from getting to the furnace brazed seams.

Jim

Ed Anderson <eanderson@carolina.rr.com> wrote:

Ernest, you are right "Welding" on a bung could cause the seams to loosen
although a good TIG welder could do it. However, brazing on a bung uses
considerably lower temperatures - given the heat in that area, I personally
would not use epoxy. You can probably find a radiator shop that can do the
job for you quite reasonably or use the HT200 aluminum brazing material if
you do it yourself..

Ed

Ed Anderson
Rv-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
Matthews, NC
eanderson@carolina.rr.com
http://members.cox.net/rogersda/rotary/configs.htm#N494BW
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ernest Christley"
To: "Rotary motors in aircraft"
Sent: Tuesday, July 18, 2006 2:34 PM
Subject: [FlyRotary] options for modifying radiator

> I've got to add a way to attach the in and out hoses to my radiator (I'm
> going to be using 3/4" hoses, Bobby). I've assumed that about the only
> way to do this would be to weld on a nipple. But pouring that much heat
> into a radiator presents the possibility of damaging it. Are there any
> other possibilites that don't involve heat? It would be neat if
> someone made a gasketed, threaded insert that would expand when an NPT
> fitting is inserted. Insert it like a grommet, then add the fitting to
> lock it to the sides. An angled lip would pull the flange down onto the
> gasket. Anyone ever seen such a beast?
>
> --
> ,|"|"|, Ernest Christley |
> ----===<{{(oQo)}}>===---- Dyke Delta Builder |
> o| d |o http://ernest.isa-geek.org |
>
>

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

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> Homepage: http://www.flyrotary.com/
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