Subject:
[FlyRotary] Re: Engine failures, Rotary or otherwise
To clarify
the air filter issue. I seem to remember someone posting a page from the mazda
manual regarding apex seal tolerances after Ed's failure and later
confirmed the slot was out of spec. I remember the manual said to check the air
filter. Mazda seems to think running without a filter or (dirty filter?) will
cause rotor apex seal slots wear. Is this correct?
Bobby
I don’t think there
is any doubt that every ‘terrestrial’ vehicle needs an air filter. They
run on dust laden surfaces, and, at times, on unpaved surfaces which themselves
are dust; resulting in the ingestion of a lot of abrasive
material.
The rational (at
least mine) for not using a filter on an aircraft is that, a) it spends little
of its time on a surface, and then on one that is paved a periodically blown off
by other aircraft, and b) the amount of particulates above a few hundred feet
(and certainly at a few thousand feet) is very low; probably similar to what
goes through a filter in dusty conditions.
If my flights
averaged something like a couple of hours each, there is about 15 minutes on a
relatively clean surface for every 2 hours up in clean air. If the rpm in
the air is 5500 and that on the surface is 1800, then the fraction of air volume
used where there may be some fine particulates of concern is about
4%.
So I’m willing to
accept that in exchange for keeping the ram air manifold pressure increase of
about 1.5” Hg that I can get when cruising close to 200 mph for the 2 hours that
I’m not on the surface. A compact filter is going to eat most if not all
that ram pressure. If you aren’t concerned about the pressure loss, or you
can include a sufficiently large filter enclosure, and not lose too much of the
ram pressure in expansion, contraction and friction losses; then it makes sense
to include an air filter.
I am definitely not
advocating not using a filter. Just giving you my rational, however
faulted, for going without one. (BTW, I do have a screen at the largest
diameter in the intake duct to prevent anything bigger than about 1/32” from
getting through).
FWIW,
Al
With all
due respect; I don’t disagree with what you’re saying here, but I do take
offense at you calling Tracy, myself, and others “idiots” because we have chosen
to run without an air filter. My intake is in front of the prop and above
the wing strake. Anyway, why climb on that issue? There has not been
a single aircraft incident that I am aware of that has resulted from not using
an air filter. Let’s pick an issue which has caused a
failure.
I won’t
argue that running without a filter may reduce the engine life; and I may
consider one later. And yes, the engine would eventually fail; every
engine will – filter or no filter - if you run it long enough.
Al (I
guess it’s past my bedtime)
Rusty,
and Group,
I
understand your comments Rusty, and think you are both right and wrong. I
believe it is easier, for most people, to be successful with a standard aircraft
engine. I DO NOT believe this is because the Lyc, Conti, or whatever is
inherently more reliable. I do believe that the ancillaries are better developed
for "conventional" aircraft engines.
Because
we [FlyRotary or ACRE] are rotary
enthusiasts we hear about EVERY rotary problem. If we heard about every Lyc
problem caused on a daily basis we might never fly spam again! I am not trying
to offer so anecdote to soothe the rotary faithful, as all failures are just
that, failures. I would remind everyone that ALL Lyc installs in certified
aircraft now come with AIR FILTERS!
I'LL SAY
THIS FLAT OUT, IF YOU DON'T RUN A FILTER YOU WILL HAVE A FAILURE! I don't care
if your running a conventional aircraft engine or conversion. Running unfiltered
is simple idiocy.
It should
also be said that for Lycoming to be having crankshaft failures, and a
significant number of them to initiate an AD is not only sad but smacks of
reckless disregard. So saying that the aircooled aircraft engine is super
reliable is simply setting yourself up for a fall. If you look at the statistics
most of the engine failures are "certified" engines simply because there are
more of them!
ANY
ENGINE properly maintained and not operated outside it's normal limits will work
just fine thank you, provided it is not a deficient design to begin with. The
rotary requires a GOOD water and oil cooling system. If you aren't willing to
work on that, stop now and don't hurt the reputation of the rest of us and go
buy a Lycoming. The rewards for a GOOD installation are many but won't "just
happen." As Tracy said you must go in
with the knowledge of the needed systems or you will fail. If you do slipshod
work, Rotary or Lycoming, YOU WILL FAIL. Someone put the old saying on the site,
"How do you eat an elephant?" "One bite at a time!" This is the proper way of
looking at the jobs needed to be successful. You MUST do all the jobs. (eat
every bite) And most importantly you must do all the jobs well. Safety wire
everything even though it's a pain in the ass. If you can't do all the jobs
yourself it's no crime. Get HELP! Buy the redrive from Tracy. Or buy from Mistral,
or buy them from Marcotte. Build your system up and test it on the ground. If
you overheat your system on the ground don't assume it will be better in the
air! (It might be, but also might not be!) Plan for an adequate sized radiator.
That would be a MINIMUM of 2 cubic inches pre HP, and that only if you have
PERFECT ducting. (3 c.i. per HP would be a safer bet) Don't expect you are the
miracle guy that can change physics for your own project. Rusty has
brought up some good points in pointing out that if you want to fly soonest buy
conventional. Bernie, you can probably rebuild your system from all new parts
for less than the cost of two Lyc cylinders. As an older guy facing family
pressures I can understand how you might not want to though. This is no crime.
Your needs are your own, though I would prefer to see you go back to the rotary
and succeed. We all need to go in with our eyes open. When setting up race cars
and motorcycles I would look at every part from the stand point what will happen
if this part breaks? If the result would be a crash I would redesign the part
until I was SURE it wouldn't break. If you don't think a part is adequate DON'T
USE IT! Your responsibility is to find a part that IS good enough. Don't just
hope that everything will be OK. Work it out. Run your system enough to be sure
of it in the air. I hope everyone takes this in the spirit intended
which is to have us all come home safe.