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Hi Don,
Your question concerning a used 13B was posted to the Fly
Rotary list.
In addition to what you have already been told, here are
some things to consider .
1. Get both the injector sets, the injector fuel
rails and the intake manifold if possible.
2. Get both the leading and trailing edge ignition
modules (usually mounted on the fenders or firewall). They are each over
$500 if you order new from Mazda. Even if you intend to switch to a
different ignition system (such as the LS1), its worth getting the Mazda
units. I would also suggest getting the alternator while you are at
it. Again, you may want to replace it with a lighter unit later, but for
now it will serve.
3. Make certain the engine has a crank angle sensor
(looks like and goes into the hole that a distributor would).
4. Make certain the flywheel (flex plate on
automatic) is still attached to the flywheel end of engine - that way you can be
fairly certain that the matching counterweight is still there.
5. Check the iron housings (on each side of aluminum
rotor housings) for any signs of overheating such a bluing, burnt oil,
etc.
6. Give it the "whump" test as described by others
if you can't get a compression check. If you have access to a Mazda
compression checker that is great, but most don't so you can use a regular
compression gauge. When turning the engine over you should see 3 flickers
as each of the 3 faces of each rotor complete a revolution - its hard to read
but the needle should bounce above 80 psi for each. If a apex seal is gone
you will only get one good bounce as the seal between two of the faces is
compromised and you'll get poor compression (if any) on those two
faces.
7. Check the oil dip stick to see if the oil
appears/smells burnt (overheated).
8. If you have access to the exhaust ports, you can
actually look up into the ports and see the apex seals as they come
around. You can also stick a bronze/brass rod up and gentle push on the
apex seals, they should slide in and out of their grooves approx 1/16-18".
If the engine has not been run for awhile, the carbon can set an freeze the
seals. Also, if you see anything other than a light tan color around the
exhaust - it could mean internal problems - especially indications of oil or
coolant leaks.
9. With 137K miles, I doubt that the rotor housings
are in great shape (but, they might be). The side housings may be in need
of surfacing. But, you should be able to reuse the eccentric shaft, the
stuff under the front cover (crank angle sensor, oil pump, water
pump).
10. If its free - forget all the above - take
it! Even if total useless (unlikely) it will be something you can tear
down, use as a template for fitting to your airframe, etc.
Ed
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