X-Virus-Scanned: clean according to Sophos on Logan.com Return-Path: Received: from [24.25.9.101] (HELO ms-smtp-02-eri0.southeast.rr.com) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 5.0.7) with ESMTP id 960570 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Mon, 30 Jan 2006 09:40:16 -0500 Received-SPF: pass receiver=logan.com; client-ip=24.25.9.101; envelope-from=eanderson@carolina.rr.com Received: from edward2 (cpe-024-074-025-165.carolina.res.rr.com [24.74.25.165]) by ms-smtp-02-eri0.southeast.rr.com (8.13.4/8.13.4) with SMTP id k0UEd9sX002073; Mon, 30 Jan 2006 09:39:12 -0500 (EST) Message-ID: <000701c625aa$efa27fb0$2402a8c0@edward2> From: "Ed Anderson" To: Cc: "Rotary motors in aircraft" Subject: Mazda Engine Date: Mon, 30 Jan 2006 09:39:11 -0500 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0004_01C62581.062CB540" X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 6.00.2900.2180 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V6.00.2900.2180 X-Virus-Scanned: Symantec AntiVirus Scan Engine This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01C62581.062CB540 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hi Don, Your question concerning a used 13B was posted to the Fly Rotary list. In addition to what you have already been told, here are some things to = consider . 1. Get both the injector sets, the injector fuel rails and the intake = manifold if possible. 2. Get both the leading and trailing edge ignition modules (usually = mounted on the fenders or firewall). They are each over $500 if you = order new from Mazda. Even if you intend to switch to a different = ignition system (such as the LS1), its worth getting the Mazda units. I = would also suggest getting the alternator while you are at it. Again, = you may want to replace it with a lighter unit later, but for now it = will serve. 3. Make certain the engine has a crank angle sensor (looks like and = goes into the hole that a distributor would). 4. Make certain the flywheel (flex plate on automatic) is still = attached to the flywheel end of engine - that way you can be fairly = certain that the matching counterweight is still there. 5. Check the iron housings (on each side of aluminum rotor housings) = for any signs of overheating such a bluing, burnt oil, etc.=20 6. Give it the "whump" test as described by others if you can't get a = compression check. If you have access to a Mazda compression checker = that is great, but most don't so you can use a regular compression = gauge. When turning the engine over you should see 3 flickers as each = of the 3 faces of each rotor complete a revolution - its hard to read = but the needle should bounce above 80 psi for each. If a apex seal is = gone you will only get one good bounce as the seal between two of the = faces is compromised and you'll get poor compression (if any) on those = two faces. 7. Check the oil dip stick to see if the oil appears/smells burnt = (overheated). 8. If you have access to the exhaust ports, you can actually look up = into the ports and see the apex seals as they come around. You can also = stick a bronze/brass rod up and gentle push on the apex seals, they = should slide in and out of their grooves approx 1/16-18". If the engine = has not been run for awhile, the carbon can set an freeze the seals. = Also, if you see anything other than a light tan color around the = exhaust - it could mean internal problems - especially indications of = oil or coolant leaks. =20 9. With 137K miles, I doubt that the rotor housings are in great shape = (but, they might be). The side housings may be in need of surfacing. = But, you should be able to reuse the eccentric shaft, the stuff under = the front cover (crank angle sensor, oil pump, water pump). 10. If its free - forget all the above - take it! Even if total = useless (unlikely) it will be something you can tear down, use as a = template for fitting to your airframe, etc. Ed Ed Anderson Rv-6A N494BW Rotary Powered Matthews, NC eanderson@carolina.rr.com ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01C62581.062CB540 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Hi Don,
 
Your question concerning a used 13B was posted = to the Fly=20 Rotary list.
 
In addition to what you have already been told, = here are=20 some things to consider .
 
1.  Get both the injector sets, the = injector fuel=20 rails and the intake manifold if possible.
 
2.  Get both the leading and trailing edge = ignition=20 modules (usually mounted on the fenders or firewall).  They are = each over=20 $500 if you order new from Mazda.  Even if you intend to switch to = a=20 different ignition system (such as the LS1), its worth getting the Mazda = units.  I would also suggest getting the alternator while you are = at=20 it.  Again, you may want to replace it with a lighter unit later, = but for=20 now it  will serve.
 
3.  Make certain the engine has a crank = angle sensor=20 (looks like and goes into the hole that a distributor = would).
 
4.  Make certain the flywheel (flex plate = on=20 automatic) is still attached to the flywheel end of engine - that way = you can be=20 fairly certain that the matching counterweight is still = there.
 
5.  Check the iron housings (on each side = of aluminum=20 rotor housings) for any signs of overheating such a bluing, burnt oil,=20 etc. 
 
6.  Give it the "whump" test as described = by others=20 if you can't get a compression check.  If you have access to a = Mazda=20 compression checker that is great, but most don't so you can use a = regular=20 compression gauge.  When turning the engine over you should see 3 = flickers=20 as each of the 3 faces of each rotor complete a revolution - its hard to = read=20 but the needle should bounce above 80 psi for each.  If a apex seal = is gone=20 you will only get one good bounce as the seal between two of the faces = is=20 compromised and you'll get poor compression (if any) on those two=20 faces.
 
7.  Check the oil dip stick to see if the = oil=20 appears/smells burnt (overheated).
 
8.  If you have access to the exhaust = ports, you can=20 actually look up into the ports and see the apex seals as they come=20 around.  You can also stick a bronze/brass rod up and gentle push = on the=20 apex seals, they should slide in and out of their grooves approx = 1/16-18". =20 If the engine has not been run for awhile, the carbon can set an freeze = the=20 seals.  Also, if you see anything other than a light tan color = around the=20 exhaust - it could mean internal problems - especially indications of = oil or=20 coolant leaks. 
 
 
9.  With 137K miles, I doubt that the rotor = housings=20 are in great shape (but, they might be).  The side housings may be = in need=20 of surfacing.  But, you should be able to reuse the eccentric = shaft, the=20 stuff under the front cover (crank angle sensor, oil pump, water=20 pump).
 
10.  If its free - forget all the above - = take=20 it!  Even if total useless (unlikely) it will be something you can = tear=20 down, use as a template for fitting to your airframe, etc.
 
Ed
 
Ed Anderson
Rv-6A N494BW Rotary = Powered
Matthews,=20 NC
eanderson@carolina.rr.com
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