Bulent Aliev wrote:

From the Canard builders list. Makes also engine room monitoring camera.

And from the COZY_builder's list - a request for info.  I don't think Don
has found this list yet, so replies should go direct to his email address.
(Yes I sent him the website address.)  Also enclosed is my first reply to
him.


 

>> good I can hardly pass on it.
>> What kind of things should I look for, or ask about to see if it will work
>> for me?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Don Solomon
>> Cozy #1169
>> Durango, CO (DRO)
>> http://www.maddyhome.com/canardpages/pages/triptrish/index.html

> From: Dale Rogers <dale.rog@gmail.com>

Mailed-By: mailman.qth.net

>
> Don,

>   You would probably get more useful responses on the FlyRotary list
> < flyrotary@lancaironline.net >.  Here's what little I know, at this point
> in my build:
>
>   If possible, see if it will start.  Be careful, you don't want to run it
> very long until you've assured yourself that the coolant has been
> purged of air.  That's the big risk with buying a used engine - if the car
> has been in a wreck and the cooling system breached while the engine
> was running, damage may already be done.
>
>   The engine should be very smooth above 1200 rpm.
>
>   Get a dynamic compression check (takes a special tool that only
> experienced Mazda mech's will have.)  If you can't get that, turn the
> engine over by hand (CLOCKWISE! Turning it backwards does bad
> things to apex seals - especially if  they are well-worn.)  You're
> listening for a distinct "WUFF" as each apex seal uncovers an exhaust
> port.  You should hear two for each full turn of the eccentric (crank)
> shaft - it will take three turns to cycle all six faces.  The "WUFFs"
> should all have the same intensity.
>
>   If it runs smoothly, or at least has even compression, you probably
> have a rebuildable core.  At 137K miles,  that's about the best you can
> expect.  The parts for the rebuild will run less than $1000.
>
>  If the engine is already out of the car, be certain you get everything.
> There should be two pairs of injectors - primary and secondary.  If they
> aren't there, it could cost you as much as the rest of the engine to
> replace them.  Fuel rails also aren't inexpensive.
>
>   If you're _really_ lucky, the engine came from a car with an
> automatic transmission.  If you're using a reduction drive, you'll need
> the AT flexplate and it's counterweight for a connection.
>
> Dale R.