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Paul, I would suggestion (if you have not already
done this) make certain that the "bad" rotor is getting spark and fuel.
Pretty easy on the spark just hold the plug wire in you hand and crank the
engine {:>) - recall ever having someone do that to you as a kid "helping"
fix a lawn mower. "Here hold this. Yoweee!! Yep! got
spark OK". I just stick a plug in it and observe whether there is a strong
spark.
I have had the engine "run" on only one rotor -
rougher than a cob. In my cases, it has been a fuel issue.
Generally, its happened after I have "flooded" the engine or have a hard time
getting it started on a cold morning. One rotor will apparently find the
right mixture and start running and eventually (if you can stand the rough
running) the second rotor will kick in. That may not be the case with your
situation, however. Generally 30-45 seconds of running on one rotor would
clear up my "one rotor" operation.
The most likely suspect is the injector circuit to
your "bad" rotor. Try removing the injector from the good running rotor
(along with its connector still connected) and install in the bad rotor.
If the bad rotor starts running then you know its your bad rotor's
injector/wiring (most likely).
Ed A
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Saturday, February 26, 2005 7:46
PM
Subject: [FlyRotary] engine running
poorly
Well, I finished scraping the foam out of my new
cowling ram air scoop today. I put the cowling on and wanted to run the engine
to see if I was getting sufficient outside air into the throttlebody to get
the kind of rpm increases that I experienced with the top cowling removed last
week. Engine was hard to start, and when it did start, it was obvious
that it was only running on one rotor. I pulled the spark plugs for
inspection, and they looked to be in good, clean condition. I then removed one
injector plug and restarted the engine, and there was no change. (the injector
closest to the water pump). I then replaced that injector plug and
removed the one closest to the PSRU and the engine would not run at all.
Well, now at least I know which rotor is producing power. Because I ran
the engine so hard during the ground runs last week trying to eliminate the
vapor lock problem, (250 degrees water temp) I'm thinking it might be
prudent to just replace the spark plugs regardless of how good they appear on
the surface.
Next, I will
switch the two injector plugs to find out if it is the injector or the wiring
to the injector that is causing the problem. (after replacing the spark plugs,
of course). Any other hints or suggestions you guys might come up with
will be greatly appreciated. I did turn the prop thru a couple of times, and
the sucking sounds of the engine seem to indicate that the apex seals are
probably not suspect.
Will update my findings
soon. Paul Conner
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