Return-Path: Received: from [24.25.9.103] (HELO ms-smtp-04-eri0.southeast.rr.com) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 4.3c2) with ESMTP id 760981 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Sat, 26 Feb 2005 20:07:32 -0500 Received-SPF: pass receiver=logan.com; client-ip=24.25.9.103; envelope-from=eanderson@carolina.rr.com Received: from edward2 (cpe-024-074-185-127.carolina.rr.com [24.74.185.127]) by ms-smtp-04-eri0.southeast.rr.com (8.12.10/8.12.7) with SMTP id j1R16gCi027147 for ; Sat, 26 Feb 2005 20:06:43 -0500 (EST) Message-ID: <001801c51c68$9ed9af50$2402a8c0@edward2> From: "Ed Anderson" To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" References: Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] engine running poorly Date: Sat, 26 Feb 2005 20:06:50 -0500 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0015_01C51C3E.B55F29F0" X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 6.00.2800.1106 X-MIMEOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V6.00.2800.1106 X-Virus-Scanned: Symantec AntiVirus Scan Engine This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0015_01C51C3E.B55F29F0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Paul, I would suggestion (if you have not already done this) make = certain that the "bad" rotor is getting spark and fuel. Pretty easy on = the spark just hold the plug wire in you hand and crank the engine {:>) = - recall ever having someone do that to you as a kid "helping" fix a = lawn mower. "Here hold this. Yoweee!! Yep! got spark OK". I just = stick a plug in it and observe whether there is a strong spark. I have had the engine "run" on only one rotor - rougher than a cob. In = my cases, it has been a fuel issue. Generally, its happened after I = have "flooded" the engine or have a hard time getting it started on a = cold morning. One rotor will apparently find the right mixture and = start running and eventually (if you can stand the rough running) the = second rotor will kick in. That may not be the case with your = situation, however. Generally 30-45 seconds of running on one rotor = would clear up my "one rotor" operation. The most likely suspect is the injector circuit to your "bad" rotor. = Try removing the injector from the good running rotor (along with its = connector still connected) and install in the bad rotor. If the bad = rotor starts running then you know its your bad rotor's injector/wiring = (most likely). Ed A ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Paul=20 To: Rotary motors in aircraft=20 Sent: Saturday, February 26, 2005 7:46 PM Subject: [FlyRotary] engine running poorly Well, I finished scraping the foam out of my new cowling ram air scoop = today. I put the cowling on and wanted to run the engine to see if I was = getting sufficient outside air into the throttlebody to get the kind of = rpm increases that I experienced with the top cowling removed last week. = Engine was hard to start, and when it did start, it was obvious that it = was only running on one rotor. I pulled the spark plugs for inspection, = and they looked to be in good, clean condition. I then removed one = injector plug and restarted the engine, and there was no change. (the = injector closest to the water pump). I then replaced that injector plug = and removed the one closest to the PSRU and the engine would not run at = all. Well, now at least I know which rotor is producing power. Because = I ran the engine so hard during the ground runs last week trying to = eliminate the vapor lock problem, (250 degrees water temp) I'm thinking = it might be prudent to just replace the spark plugs regardless of how = good they appear on the surface. Next, I will switch the two injector plugs to find out if it is = the injector or the wiring to the injector that is causing the problem. = (after replacing the spark plugs, of course). Any other hints or = suggestions you guys might come up with will be greatly appreciated. I = did turn the prop thru a couple of times, and the sucking sounds of the = engine seem to indicate that the apex seals are probably not suspect.=20 Will update my findings soon. Paul Conner -------------------------------------------------------------------------= ----- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.300 / Virus Database: 266.5.0 - Release Date: 2/25/2005 -------------------------------------------------------------------------= ----- >> Homepage: http://www.flyrotary.com/ >> Archive: http://lancaironline.net/lists/flyrotary/List.html ------=_NextPart_000_0015_01C51C3E.B55F29F0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Paul, I would suggestion (if you have = not already=20 done this) make certain that the "bad" rotor is getting spark and = fuel. =20 Pretty easy on the spark just hold the plug wire in you hand and crank = the=20 engine {:>) - recall ever having someone do that to you as a kid = "helping"=20 fix a lawn mower.  "Here hold  this.  Yoweee!!  Yep! = got=20 spark OK".  I just stick a plug in it and observe whether there is = a strong=20 spark.
 
I have had the engine "run" on only one = rotor -=20 rougher than a cob.  In my cases, it has been a fuel issue. =20 Generally, its happened after I have "flooded" the engine or have a hard = time=20 getting it started on a cold morning.  One rotor will apparently = find the=20 right mixture and start running and eventually (if you can stand the = rough=20 running) the second rotor will kick in.  That may not be the case = with your=20 situation, however.  Generally 30-45 seconds of running on one = rotor would=20 clear up my "one rotor" operation.
 
The most likely suspect is the injector = circuit to=20 your "bad" rotor.  Try removing the injector from the good running = rotor=20 (along with its connector still connected) and install in the bad = rotor. =20 If the bad rotor starts running then you know its your bad rotor's=20 injector/wiring (most likely).
 
 
Ed A
 
 
----- Original Message -----
From:=20 Paul=20
Sent: Saturday, February 26, = 2005 7:46=20 PM
Subject: [FlyRotary] engine = running=20 poorly

Well, I finished scraping the foam = out of my new=20 cowling ram air scoop today. I put the cowling on and wanted to run = the engine=20 to see if I was getting sufficient outside air into the throttlebody = to get=20 the kind of rpm increases that I experienced with the top cowling = removed last=20 week.  Engine was hard to start, and when it did start, it was = obvious=20 that it was only running on one rotor.  I pulled the spark plugs = for=20 inspection, and they looked to be in good, clean condition. I then = removed one=20 injector plug and restarted the engine, and there was no change. (the = injector=20 closest to the water pump).  I then replaced that injector plug = and=20 removed the one closest to the PSRU and the engine would not run at = all. =20 Well, now at least I know which rotor is producing power.  = Because I ran=20 the engine so hard during the ground runs last week trying to = eliminate the=20 vapor lock problem, (250 degrees water temp) I'm thinking it = might be=20 prudent to just replace the spark plugs regardless of how good they = appear on=20 the surface.
      Next, = I will=20 switch the two injector plugs to find out if it is the injector or the = wiring=20 to the injector that is causing the problem. (after replacing the = spark plugs,=20 of course).  Any other hints or suggestions you guys might come = up with=20 will be greatly appreciated. I did turn the prop thru a couple of = times, and=20 the sucking sounds of the engine seem to indicate that the apex seals = are=20 probably not suspect.
     Will update = my findings=20 soon.   Paul Conner

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG=20 Anti-Virus.
Version: 7.0.300 / Virus Database: 266.5.0 - Release = Date:=20 2/25/2005

>>  Homepage: =20 http://www.flyrotary.com/
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