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I exceeded the size limit for the picture on this gizmo for a second
alternator when I sent it earlier. Now I'll just paste a URL for you.
It's as close as your nearest John Deere dealer. The info comes from
the site
http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/corvair/dynamo.html
Jeff.
Charlie England wrote:
Ernest
Christley wrote:
Bobby J. Hughes wrote:
Found the picture. The catalog seems to be
missing.
http://www.racemate.com/home.htm
There that's better. The claim that it won't overvoltage is absolutely
false. In the bottom of the picture on the right. That is the
regulator. It works by dumping excess energy to ground. It looks like
a heat sink, because it IS a heat sink. If that thing burns out and
you rev high enough that the rest of your system can burn off what the
generator puts out, you're in an overvoltage situation.
The specs claim 1/3rd Hp to drive it. That is about 18A at 13.5V.
I'll make a big assumption here and assume that they rated that at
5500RPM, the same number they used to compare the pump flows at the
bottom of the spec page. Using this on the end of the crankshaft would
be a simple matter of bolting the coil pack to the front housing and
the bolting the 'can' that carries the magnets to the end of the
shaft. Many motorcycles use this exact same setup, and you can buy
some of those packages for about $100. I looked at and rejected those,
because 18A isn't enough for a replacement; though it will do as a
backup.
Harley Davidson makes a similar setup for their Goldwing bikes that is
35A. That is the one I want to look at.
I'm one of the early speculators/hopefuls about whether the crank angle
sensor shaft/gear could handle the torque of a small alternator
supplying just engine electrical power. The eshaft is obviously a safer
route if no one can do the sensor shaft calcs with confidence.
18 amps should be plenty to run the engine stuff. Start using ship's
power & switch to the crank mounted alt. automatically (as someone
else mentioned) as rpm comes up. Use the a/c electrical system (which
backs up itself at low current demand levels) as backup for the
engine's power. Now it's triple redundant.
The eshaft thing should be do-able with the little Kubota PM
alternators if you can rig a little 3 legged support in front of the
eshaft pulley & bolt a flex coupler to the front of the pulley to
drive the alt. shaft.
There's also a crank mounted alt. sold by one of the VW conversion
houses. I posted a link to it several months ago; I'll try to find it
again if anyone's interested.
The ideal way to control it would be a switching regulator instead of
the linear shunt that seems to be common, but I doubt there's an
off-the-shelf model that would handle the rather wide input voltage
swing (probably <12v to >60v) give 14v out.
Charlie
Homepage: http://www.flyrotary.com/
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