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Sounds like your 'shop craft' as I call it is excellent David.
Only thing I would question is the use of brushable sealant for sealing the
pan & mount plate. I'd recommend a slower curing RTV type such as
Ultra Gray. Just as important is the procedure. Arrange things
so that you can do all the sealing in an uninterrupted sequence. Your
light tightening of bolts first then final tightening after sealant is cured is
a good practice. Installation of the plate & pan should be done
before installing the completed assembly on the engine mount. This also
avoids the bolt interference on the engine mount. I've never had an
oil leak in several engine installs using this procedure.
Good shop craft skills are an under-rated factor in a good engine
installation.
Tracy
Well, went out this morning to the hangar and commenced to some
minor aircraft work.. nothing spectacular... My first minor
project was drilling bolt heads for safety wire.. I tapped 2 of the
M6x1x25 hardware store bolts (that I had bought for the pan mounting ) for
safety wiring. I then took the pickup tube and spacer and used Permatex to
mate them together, then permatex'd and bolted the tube and spacer
assembly to the block. My next experiment was my first at safety wiring
"properly". I ended up making about 2-3 tries at it before I was satisfied
that the wire arrangement would not allow the bolts to loosen.. minimal
bloodshed and looks pretty good. I spent some time dressing the
oil pan for preliminary mounting, including cleaning out shavings from
some minor surgery I did on it last week. The stock pan has a baffle in
one corner that deflects spray from the rear pressure regulator. However,
these baffles interfere with mounting flush against the CCI mounting
plate, so we dremeled them off and deburred it during my last hangar
session. After removing old gasket material and wire brushing the pan, I
turned to the engine. I ran 4 small M6x1x25 hardware bolts into the
block through the mount maybe a turn or two.. just enough to hold, then I
picked up the block using the engine hoist. This gave me a uniform gap of
about 1/4" to work in around the perimeter of the mounting plate. I
brushed on permatex to the top of the plate and the bottom of the engine
and set up a liberal coat as best I could. I then cinched the bolts down
slowing, drawing the engine back down to the mount and allowing some time
for the permatex to start to set up before it was compressed between the
two surfaces. I let this sit for a bit, and of course let all the tension
off the hoist. I then took after the pan and brushed the permatex on the
pan flange and bottom of the mounting plate. Painting uphill with runny
sealant was a challenge and my fingers STILL have a protective gasket
coating on them.. But I was able to mate those surfaces and ran in about
14 of the hardware store bolts, to cinch the pan snug. It was
at this point I realized that mounting the pan/engine would be a little
tricky. The rear/aft portion of the CCI mount has a crosspiece underneath
the pan that runs along the bottom side of the pan flange/bolt line. This
interferes to the point that two holes are unable to have a socket placed
on bolts located in them, and 4 or 5 more holes are inaccessible with
proper length bolts. The most obvious solution is to remove the corner
shock mount bolts to allow lifting the mounting plate off the remainder of
the frame. I dont have the documentation handy from the CCI mount. If Fred
or anyone else here with the info is able to, let me know the procedure to
remove and reinstall the shock mount bolts to allow access to the rear
line of pan mounting bolts. With Chris's current schedule its difficult
for us to catch up with each other lately, so if someone from here gets
back to me before he does regarding this, all the better. On
a side note, yes, I am using hardware store bolts at the moment.. they are
temporary only. I will be going to the bolt shop today or tomorrow and
getting some grade 8 metric bolts. I would like to poll the audience
however, regarding methods of safetying the bolts. Any experience with
safety wire on this number of bolts? Lock washers? Star Washers? Locktite?
Looking back I wish I had safetywired the Tension Bolts on the engine
rebuilt, simply in case one sheared it wouldnt risk hitting anything by
sliding out, but thats not a realistic option without rebuilding the
engine at this point (we had a real snug fit with all the silicone and
shrinkwrap on the bolts) On a side note, Chris put the AN
fittings on the aluminum tubing that runs from the oil cooler in the nose
to the aft bulkhead. Pictures to
follow. Dave
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