Return-Path: Received: from [65.54.168.111] (HELO hotmail.com) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 4.3c1) with ESMTP id 742377 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Wed, 16 Feb 2005 23:41:51 -0500 Received-SPF: pass receiver=logan.com; client-ip=65.54.168.111; envelope-from=lors01@msn.com Received: from mail pickup service by hotmail.com with Microsoft SMTPSVC; Wed, 16 Feb 2005 10:15:02 -0800 Message-ID: Received: from 4.174.3.22 by BAY3-DAV7.phx.gbl with DAV; Wed, 16 Feb 2005 18:14:18 +0000 X-Originating-IP: [4.174.3.22] X-Originating-Email: [lors01@msn.com] X-Sender: lors01@msn.com From: "Tracy Crook" To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" References: Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Some progress on the engine mount.. Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2005 13:14:18 -0500 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0092_01C51429.6BE8CA00" X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: MSN 9 X-MimeOLE: Produced By MSN MimeOLE V9.10.0011.1703 Seal-Send-Time: Wed, 16 Feb 2005 13:14:18 -0500 X-OriginalArrivalTime: 16 Feb 2005 18:15:02.0380 (UTC) FILETIME=[6ECE92C0:01C51453] This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0092_01C51429.6BE8CA00 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Sounds like your 'shop craft' as I call it is excellent David. =20 Only thing I would question is the use of brushable sealant for sealing = the pan & mount plate. I'd recommend a slower curing RTV type such as = Ultra Gray. Just as important is the procedure. Arrange things so = that you can do all the sealing in an uninterrupted sequence. Your = light tightening of bolts first then final tightening after sealant is = cured is a good practice. Installation of the plate & pan should be = done before installing the completed assembly on the engine mount. This = also avoids the bolt interference on the engine mount. I've never had an = oil leak in several engine installs using this procedure. Good shop craft skills are an under-rated factor in a good engine = installation. Tracy Well, went out this morning to the hangar and commenced to some minor=20 aircraft work.. nothing spectacular... =20 My first minor project was drilling bolt heads for safety wire.. I=20 tapped 2 of the M6x1x25 hardware store bolts (that I had bought for = the=20 pan mounting ) for safety wiring. I then took the pickup tube and = spacer=20 and used Permatex to mate them together, then permatex'd and bolted = the=20 tube and spacer assembly to the block. My next experiment was my first = at safety wiring "properly". I ended up making about 2-3 tries at it=20 before I was satisfied that the wire arrangement would not allow the=20 bolts to loosen.. minimal bloodshed and looks pretty good. =20 I spent some time dressing the oil pan for preliminary mounting,=20 including cleaning out shavings from some minor surgery I did on it = last=20 week. The stock pan has a baffle in one corner that deflects spray = from=20 the rear pressure regulator. However, these baffles interfere with=20 mounting flush against the CCI mounting plate, so we dremeled them off = and deburred it during my last hangar session. After removing old = gasket=20 material and wire brushing the pan, I turned to the engine. I ran 4=20 small M6x1x25 hardware bolts into the block through the mount maybe a = turn or two.. just enough to hold, then I picked up the block using = the=20 engine hoist. This gave me a uniform gap of about 1/4" to work in = around=20 the perimeter of the mounting plate. I brushed on permatex to the top = of=20 the plate and the bottom of the engine and set up a liberal coat as = best=20 I could. I then cinched the bolts down slowing, drawing the engine = back=20 down to the mount and allowing some time for the permatex to start to=20 set up before it was compressed between the two surfaces. I let this = sit=20 for a bit, and of course let all the tension off the hoist. I then = took=20 after the pan and brushed the permatex on the pan flange and bottom of = the mounting plate. Painting uphill with runny sealant was a challenge = and my fingers STILL have a protective gasket coating on them.. But I=20 was able to mate those surfaces and ran in about 14 of the hardware=20 store bolts, to cinch the pan snug. =20 It was at this point I realized that mounting the pan/engine would be = a=20 little tricky. The rear/aft portion of the CCI mount has a crosspiece=20 underneath the pan that runs along the bottom side of the pan=20 flange/bolt line. This interferes to the point that two holes are = unable=20 to have a socket placed on bolts located in them, and 4 or 5 more = holes=20 are inaccessible with proper length bolts. The most obvious solution = is=20 to remove the corner shock mount bolts to allow lifting the mounting=20 plate off the remainder of the frame. I dont have the documentation=20 handy from the CCI mount. If Fred or anyone else here with the info is = able to, let me know the procedure to remove and reinstall the shock=20 mount bolts to allow access to the rear line of pan mounting bolts. = With=20 Chris's current schedule its difficult for us to catch up with each=20 other lately, so if someone from here gets back to me before he does=20 regarding this, all the better. =20 On a side note, yes, I am using hardware store bolts at the moment..=20 they are temporary only. I will be going to the bolt shop today or=20 tomorrow and getting some grade 8 metric bolts. I would like to poll = the=20 audience however, regarding methods of safetying the bolts. Any=20 experience with safety wire on this number of bolts? Lock washers? = Star=20 Washers? Locktite? Looking back I wish I had safetywired the Tension=20 Bolts on the engine rebuilt, simply in case one sheared it wouldnt = risk=20 hitting anything by sliding out, but thats not a realistic option=20 without rebuilding the engine at this point (we had a real snug fit = with=20 all the silicone and shrinkwrap on the bolts) =20 On a side note, Chris put the AN fittings on the aluminum tubing that=20 runs from the oil cooler in the nose to the aft bulkhead. Pictures to=20 follow. =20 Dave >> Homepage: http://www.flyrotary.com/ >> Archive: = http://lancaironline.net/lists/flyrotary/List.html ------=_NextPart_000_0092_01C51429.6BE8CA00 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Sounds like your 'shop craft' as I call it is excellent = David.  =20
 
Only thing I would question is the use of brushable sealant for = sealing the=20 pan & mount plate.  I'd recommend a slower curing RTV type = such as=20 Ultra Gray.  Just as important is the procedure.   = Arrange things=20 so that you can do all the sealing in an uninterrupted sequence.  = Your=20 light tightening of bolts first then final tightening after sealant is = cured is=20 a good practice.   Installation of the plate & pan should = be done=20 before installing the completed assembly on the engine mount.  This = also=20 avoids the bolt interference on the engine mount. I've never had an=20 oil leak in several engine installs using this procedure.
 
Good shop craft skills are an under-rated factor in a good engine=20 installation.
 
Tracy

Well, went out this morning to the hangar and commenced = to some=20 minor
aircraft work.. nothing spectacular...
 
My first = minor=20 project was drilling bolt heads for safety wire.. I
tapped 2 of = the=20 M6x1x25 hardware store bolts (that I had bought for the
pan = mounting ) for=20 safety wiring. I then took the pickup tube and spacer
and used = Permatex to=20 mate them together, then permatex'd and bolted the
tube and spacer = assembly to the block. My next experiment was my first
at safety = wiring=20 "properly". I ended up making about 2-3 tries at it
before I was = satisfied=20 that the wire arrangement would not allow the
bolts to loosen.. = minimal=20 bloodshed and looks pretty good.
 
I spent some time = dressing the=20 oil pan for preliminary mounting,
including cleaning out shavings = from=20 some minor surgery I did on it last
week. The stock pan has a = baffle in=20 one corner that deflects spray from
the rear pressure regulator. = However,=20 these baffles interfere with
mounting flush against the CCI = mounting=20 plate, so we dremeled them off
and deburred it during my last = hangar=20 session. After removing old gasket
material and wire brushing the = pan, I=20 turned to the engine. I ran 4
small  M6x1x25 hardware bolts = into the=20 block through the mount maybe a
turn or two.. just enough to hold, = then I=20 picked up the block using the
engine hoist. This gave me a uniform = gap of=20 about 1/4" to work in around
the perimeter of the mounting plate. = I=20 brushed on permatex to the top of
the plate and the bottom of the = engine=20 and set up a liberal coat as best
I could. I then cinched the = bolts down=20 slowing, drawing the engine back
down to the mount and allowing = some time=20 for the permatex to start to
set up before it was compressed = between the=20 two surfaces. I let this sit
for a bit, and of course let all the = tension=20 off the hoist. I then took
after the pan and brushed the permatex = on the=20 pan flange and bottom of
the mounting plate. Painting uphill with = runny=20 sealant was a challenge
and my fingers STILL have a protective = gasket=20 coating on them.. But I
was able to mate those surfaces and ran in = about=20 14 of the hardware
store bolts, to cinch the pan = snug.
 
It was=20 at this point I realized that mounting the pan/engine would be a =
little=20 tricky. The rear/aft portion of the CCI mount has a crosspiece =
underneath=20 the pan that runs along the bottom side of the pan
flange/bolt = line. This=20 interferes to the point that two holes are unable
to have a socket = placed=20 on bolts located in them, and 4 or 5 more holes
are inaccessible = with=20 proper length bolts. The most obvious solution is
to remove the = corner=20 shock mount bolts to allow lifting the mounting
plate off the = remainder of=20 the frame. I dont have the documentation
handy from the CCI mount. = If Fred=20 or anyone else here with the info is
able to, let me know the = procedure to=20 remove and reinstall the shock
mount bolts to allow access to the = rear=20 line of pan mounting bolts. With
Chris's current schedule its = difficult=20 for us to catch up with each
other lately, so if someone from here = gets=20 back to me before he does
regarding this, all the = better.
 
On=20 a side note, yes, I am using hardware store bolts at the moment.. =
they are=20 temporary only. I will be going to the bolt shop today or
tomorrow = and=20 getting some grade 8 metric bolts. I would like to poll the =
audience=20 however, regarding methods of safetying the bolts. Any
experience = with=20 safety wire on this number of bolts? Lock washers? Star
Washers? = Locktite?=20 Looking back I wish I had safetywired the Tension
Bolts on the = engine=20 rebuilt, simply in case one sheared it wouldnt risk
hitting = anything by=20 sliding out, but thats not a realistic option
without rebuilding = the=20 engine at this point (we had a real snug fit with
all the silicone = and=20 shrinkwrap on the bolts)
 
On a side note, Chris put the AN = fittings on the aluminum tubing that
runs from the oil cooler in = the nose=20 to the aft bulkhead. Pictures to=20
follow.
 
Dave


>>  = Homepage:  http://www.flyrotary.com/
>&= gt; =20 Archive:   http://lancai= ronline.net/lists/flyrotary/List.html
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