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Alex,
Plan on using 2 delco voyager M24mf for a battery.
We abuse these alot and they always work. One alternator, one buss, two master
switches/batteries.
Barny
MGDQ 20bt
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Wednesday, February 16, 2005 4:01
PM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Battery voltage
(was: Racetech RV6A Forced Landing)
It seems to me people
should be using deep cycle marine batteries for there aircraft. A deep cycle
marine battery will give much better and longer performance with a dead
alternator.
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Starting (sometimes called SLI,
for starting, lighting, ignition) batteries are commonly used to start
and run engines. Engine starters need a very large starting current for
a very short time. Starting batteries have a large number of thin plates
for maximum surface area. The plates are composed of a Lead "sponge",
similar in appearance to a very fine foam sponge. This gives a very
large surface area, but if deep cycled, this sponge will quickly be
consumed and fall to the bottom of the cells. Automotive
batteries will generally fail after 30-150 deep cycles if deep cycled,
while they may last for thousands of cycles in normal starting use (2-5%
discharge).
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Deep
cycle
batteries are designed to be discharged down as much as 80% time after
time, and have much thicker plates. The major difference
between a true deep cycle battery and others is that the plates are
SOLID Lead plates - not sponge. Unfortunately, it is often impossible to
tell what you are really buying in some of the discount stores or places
that specialize in automotive batteries. The popular golf cart battery
is generally a "semi" deep cycle - better than any starting battery,
better than most marine, but not as good as a true deep cycle solid Lead
plate, such the L-16 or industrial type. However, because the golf cart
(T-105, US-2200, GC-4 etc) batteries are so common, they are usually
quite economical for small to medium systems.
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Many (most?)
Marine
batteries are usually actually a "hybrid",
and fall between the starting and deep-cycle batteries, while a few
(Rolls-Surrette and Concorde, for example) are true deep cycle. In the
hybrid, the plates may be composed of Lead sponge, but it is coarser and
heavier than that used in starting batteries. It is often hard to tell
what you are getting in a "marine" battery, but most are a hybrid.
"Hybrid" types should not be discharged more than 50%. Starting
batteries are usually rated at "CCA", or cold cranking amps, or "MCA",
Marine cranking amps - the same as "CA". Any battery with the capacity
shown in CA or MCA may not be a true deep-cycle battery. It is sometimes
hard to tell, as the terms marine and deep cycle
are sometimes overused. CA and MCA ratings are at 32 degrees F,
while CCA is at zero degree F. Unfortunately, the only positive way to
tell with some batteries is to buy one and cut it open - not much of an
option.” |
There is generally no problem
with this, providing that allowance is made for the lower cranking
amps compared to a similar size starting battery.
As a general rule, if you are going to use a true deep cycle battery (such as
the Concorde) also as a starting battery, it should be oversized about 20%
compared to the existing or recommended starting battery group size to get the
same cranking amps. That is about the same as replacing a group 24 with a
group 31. With modern engines with fuel injection and electronic ignition, it
generally takes much less battery power to crank and start them, so raw
cranking amps is less important than it used to be. On the other hand, many
cars, boats, and RV's are more heavily loaded with power sucking "appliances",
such as megawatt stereo systems etc. that are more suited for deep cycle
batteries. We have been using the Concorde SunExtender AGM batteries in most
of our vehicles for some time now with no
problems.”
http://www.windsun.com/Batteries/Battery_FAQ.htm
Alex
Madsen
From:
Rotary motors in aircraft
[mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net] On
Behalf Of WRJJRS@aol.com Sent: Wednesday, February 16, 2005 2:54
AM To: Rotary motors in aircraft Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Battery voltage (was: Racetech RV6A Forced
Landing)
Most of the
motorcycles will still show at least 11 volts while cranking and those are
small batteries. They will jump back up to at least 12.5 after cranking. I
agree that 9.5 volts is almost totally dead for practical purposes. Most
battery based systems will have trouble at around 10 volts. Use a backup
battery and a changeover system with any electrically based system. The EXP
Buss (I think) is sold by the anywhere map people. Makes it very easy to set
up a battery backup system and still charge both. I think Eggenfellner also
sells them. Good looking product, a good friend has one.
For battery
info go to the Yuasa web site. In the technical section they have a
excellent do's and don'ts of battery operation. There is also a good
description of the different battery types and their discharge
rates. Good info to know about this VITAL system
part!
In a message dated
2/15/2005 11:34:28 PM Pacific Standard Time, lendich@optusnet.com.au
writes:
Bill, What
would you expect the battery to show under starting load. George ( down
under)
> > > I suspected a charging system failure
immediately and checked the > >battery voltage in the SDS monitor.
This read 9.5 volts so I knew then that > >we had a charging
system failure. At the time, I was not worried about > >making it
to an airport, assuming that the alternator had failed just
in the > >last few minutes and believing that I had 20-25
minutes of battery power > >remaining. In fact, it is likely that
the alternator failed soon after > >takeoff from Springbank but I
did not notice signs of the failure until the > >battery was
well over half dead.
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