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Hi Guys,
Whenever I split a brand new "out of the box"
Mazda engine, there is always residual water/coolant inside., and
with it, a little surface corrosion. See pix. This is an FD
REW 13B.
Mazda test run all their engines and then drain
them. Unfortunately, you can't get ALL the water out, so the
bit that's left just festers and putrifies. Fortunately, they use
glycol/corrosion inhibitor, so whatever corrosion does occur in
minimal.
For long term storage, the best solution (pun
intended) is to flush the cooling system out with first fresh water until all
traces of coolant are gone, fill to overflowing with warn soapy water
(made by dissolving a cake of soap overnight in water). DON'T use liquid
soap (NOT the same as cake soap) and under NO circumstances EVER use
detergent (it's REALLY corrosive). MUST be ordinary cake soap. Get
all the leftovers from the bathroom and just dissolve them.
If you use cake soap, the soap will coat
everything with a protective layer of Sodium Stearate and/or Palmitate.
This is a simple housekeeper's trick to stop steel wool from going rusty (in the
days before stainless steel scrub buds). About a year ago,
we had the unfortunate experience of having to repair a really nice PP
engine that had sat about for nearly 10 years. All nicely mothballed
inside with oil. The rotors and seals were perfect.
Unfortunately, the rotor housings were all rotted out. It took 2
days to repair them with Devcon (Epoxy stuff like JB Weld).
So, to summarise, yes Cyril, your factory engine was
test run by Mazda, and yes, Cecilia, they do leave a bit
of water in the galleries, and yes Clifton, it does tend to leave
some surface corrosion..
Cheers,
Leon
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