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I changed my mind on how they might differ with the "I'm glad I only went as
far as saying they might differ." post. I can see where a small very light
balsa model with a wide-blade prop would do better to let the prop free-spin
where a heavier full-scale craft might do better to have the prop fully stalled
and not autorotating. And I know at least one person who switched from a
3-bladed prop to a 2-bladed prop so the next time he has a power-failure he
might get a reasonable glide ratio. Thanks Bob, when I hear of 'high temperature' paints and motor paints, I think
can get by with doing a paint-over but I'll want to further research paints,
primers, and powder-coatings. Sounds cheaper and durable enough. I initially
wanted a silver color but thought it was too close to white, and I heard you
shouldn't paint a motor white. Maybe that's just for air-cooled motors. To
get my desired alternating silver-blue scheme in powder-coating would take
extra work and money. I'd like to save those pennies and apply them toward a
dyno-analysis-and-tune job before I actually fly with my motor. Tom
--- Bob White <bob@bob-white.com> wrote:
I find that when I state an opinion (make a guess) like that, I can get
immediate feedback on the error of my ways. :) >
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