Mailing List flyrotary@lancaironline.net Message #12523
From: Charlie England <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: O2 sensor / Rotary Roundup
Date: Sun, 31 Oct 2004 19:11:35 -0600
To: Rotary motors in aircraft <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
I can confirm that a wonderful time was had by all. A huge thanks to Tracy for inadvertently starting this movement and (even more important), thanks to Laura for making these annual sessions possible.

*And*, thanks to Laura's parents for generously offering their home when nature made Tracy & Laura's strip & home unavailable.

Charlie


Tracy Crook wrote:

Another hint on O2 sensors (and spark plugs).  Always install them with anti-seize compound.  I like silver (zinc ?) for plugs and copper type for O2 sensors.  I also give O2 sensors a shot of PB Blaster before putting a wrench on them when removing.   Never had a stuck one when using these measures.
 
Sorry you guys with the flying rotaries couldn't get through. The weather really was bad north of Florida as reported by the guys (and girls) who drove through it so you made the right choice.  But I was truly honored by the presence of all the rotor heads who came.  Think we had 40 or so for Barbeque on Saturday and had a really great time.  Bill Schertz' presentation was a tour de force in cooling principles, Kelly Troyer de-mystified the modification of the Mazda alternator for external regulator and Richard Sohn  brought us up to date on his one rotor engine, very trick piece of work.  Tracy Crook  ----- Original Message -----

    From: BillDube@killacycle.com <mailto:BillDube@killacycle.com>
    To: Rotary motors in aircraft <mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
    Sent: Sunday, October 31, 2004 3:10 PM
    Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: O2 sensor

     I tried to install it yesterday but discovered that the bung and
    plug are now rusted/welded together - there was no getting the
    plug out.


            In a previous incarnation as a foreign car mechanic, I
    have had similar problems getting out broken spark plugs, CV joint
    bolts, exhaust manifold studs, etc. Here are the most effective
    procedures:

            Heat. It may seem counter-intuitive, but heating the plug
    intensely will loosen it. Logic tells you it will expand and get
    tighter, but years of experience have showed me that heating the
    plug works every time. I have heard lots of good guesses, but no
    one has come up with a definitive explanation.

            If you haven't rounded the head to nothing, and you can
    still get a good solid twist on the stuck plug, heat the crap out
    of it with an acetylene torch, then it will come right out. If you
    can get an impact gun on it, have the gun all ready to go
    beforehand, so you can loosen the plug while it is still red hot.
    A propane torch "kind-of" works, but does not have nearly the
    success rate of an acetylene torch.

            If you have broken the plug or rounded it hopelessly,
    there is still hope. Find a strong bolt that is close to the
    diameter of the plug, perhaps a tad smaller.  (I like to use VW
    Bug lug bolts.) Get the impact gun ready. Weld the bolt to the
    stuck plug and then hit it with the impact gun quickly, before it
    has any chance to cool. This works best with a stick welder, but
    MIG works too if you turn the current up and make a wide heavy weld.

            Of course, ground the welder to the pipe as close as
    possible to the plug and disconnect $en$itive electronics.


    Bill Dube <LED@Killacycle.com>
    http://www.killacycle.com/Lights.htm

 Homepage:  http://www.flyrotary.com/

 Archive:   http://lancaironline.net/lists/flyrotary/List.html
   


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