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Date: Sun, 31 Oct 2004 19:11:35 -0600
From: Charlie England <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
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To: Rotary motors in aircraft <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: O2 sensor / Rotary Roundup
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I can confirm that a wonderful time was had by all. A huge thanks to 
Tracy for inadvertently starting this movement and (even more 
important), thanks to Laura for making these annual sessions possible.

*And*, thanks to Laura's parents for generously offering their home when 
nature made Tracy & Laura's strip & home unavailable.

Charlie


Tracy Crook wrote:

> Another hint on O2 sensors (and spark plugs).  Always install them 
> with anti-seize compound.  I like silver (zinc ?) for plugs and copper 
> type for O2 sensors.  I also give O2 sensors a shot of PB Blaster 
> before putting a wrench on them when removing.   Never had a stuck 
> one when using these measures.
>  
> Sorry you guys with the flying rotaries couldn't get through. The 
> weather really was bad north of Florida as reported by the guys (and 
> girls) who drove through it so you made the right choice.  But I was 
> truly honored by the presence of all the rotor heads who came.  Think 
> we had 40 or so for Barbeque on Saturday and had a really great time.  
> Bill Schertz' presentation was a tour de force in cooling principles, 
> Kelly Troyer de-mystified the modification of the Mazda alternator for 
> external regulator and Richard Sohn  brought us up to date on his one 
> rotor engine, very trick piece of work. 
>  
> Tracy Crook 
>  
> ----- Original Message -----
>
>     From: BillDube@killacycle.com <mailto:BillDube@killacycle.com>
>     To: Rotary motors in aircraft <mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
>     Sent: Sunday, October 31, 2004 3:10 PM
>     Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: O2 sensor
>
>>      I tried to install it yesterday but discovered that the bung and
>>     plug are now rusted/welded together - there was no getting the
>>     plug out. 
>
>
>             In a previous incarnation as a foreign car mechanic, I
>     have had similar problems getting out broken spark plugs, CV joint
>     bolts, exhaust manifold studs, etc. Here are the most effective
>     procedures:
>
>             Heat. It may seem counter-intuitive, but heating the plug
>     intensely will loosen it. Logic tells you it will expand and get
>     tighter, but years of experience have showed me that heating the
>     plug works every time. I have heard lots of good guesses, but no
>     one has come up with a definitive explanation.
>
>             If you haven't rounded the head to nothing, and you can
>     still get a good solid twist on the stuck plug, heat the crap out
>     of it with an acetylene torch, then it will come right out. If you
>     can get an impact gun on it, have the gun all ready to go
>     beforehand, so you can loosen the plug while it is still red hot.
>     A propane torch "kind-of" works, but does not have nearly the
>     success rate of an acetylene torch.
>
>             If you have broken the plug or rounded it hopelessly,
>     there is still hope. Find a strong bolt that is close to the
>     diameter of the plug, perhaps a tad smaller.  (I like to use VW
>     Bug lug bolts.) Get the impact gun ready. Weld the bolt to the
>     stuck plug and then hit it with the impact gun quickly, before it
>     has any chance to cool. This works best with a stick welder, but
>     MIG works too if you turn the current up and make a wide heavy weld.
>
>             Of course, ground the welder to the pipe as close as
>     possible to the plug and disconnect $en$itive electronics.
>
>
>     Bill Dube <LED@Killacycle.com>
>     http://www.killacycle.com/Lights.htm
>
>>>  Homepage:  http://www.flyrotary.com/
>
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>    
>