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Hi, Ken.....the problem with drilling the end
opposite the head and inserting a cotter pin, is that the prop has to be
re-torqued every 25 hours (it is a wood prop), and/or when going from a humid
climate to a dry climate. Then, with the prop bolts newly torqued, the
cotter pin might no longer be at the proper depth, and it would be difficult to
drill a new hole each time, of course. Sounds like steel locknuts are the
way to go. Thanks for your interest and input. Paul Conner, SQ2000
finally at the airport
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Sunday, September 05, 2004 8:56
AM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: safety wiring
Ross prop bolts
Hi Ed,
I came to aviation after racing motorcycles for many years. In the
early mototrcycle days I had stuff falling off the bike (actually, just
getting loose) until I discovered thread lockers (I was only a kid in those
early years(grin)). Well, now that I have seen the light and discovered
safety wire (I'm not sure its 'better' though) please educate me further - How
is safety wiring the head of a bolt going to keep the nuts from falling
off? Why not drill the aft end of the bolt (on the backside of the
nut) for a small cotter pin?
Thanks, Ken Powell
--------------
Original message --------------
> Paul, if you have all metal
type (NOT NYLON Inserts) lock-nuts for the
> bolts and a crush plate
with a recess that the heads of the bolts will seat
> into preventing
them from turning, then it is not necessary to safety
> wire the
bolts. That is the way I flew my Ross drive and my current RD-1C
>
drive. However, You must use all metal type lock-nuts!
>
> If
you do want the safety wire then I suggest get the drilled head type
> bolts. Drilling the shank can weaken the bolt especially if you
have a bit
> of torque to apply.
>
> FWIW
>
> Ed
>
> Ed Anderson
> RV-6A N494BW Rotary
Powered
> Matthews, NC
> ----- Original Message -----
>
From: "paul"
> To: "Rotary motors in aircraft"
> Sent: Sunday, September 05, 2004 9:13
AM
> Subject: [FlyRotary] safety wiring Ross prop bolts
>
>
> > Hi all....On a typical aircraft prop installtion, the
heads of the prop
> > bolts are drilled and then safety wired.
This works, because the prop
> flange
> > has fixed
threaded sleeves into which the prop bolts fasten. On my Ross
> >
PSRU, there are thru-bolts, and instead of the bolts being threaded into a
> > fixed unit, they go through the crush plate on the engine side
of the prop
> > and have locknuts instead. What might be the best
method of securing
> these
> > type of prop bolts?
Unfortunately, I have seen a few other rotary
> > installations
with a Ross redrive, but never bothered to look to see if
> the
> > prop bolts had safety wire, etc. Thanks for any and all
suggestions. Paul
> > Conner, 13b powered SQ2000 transporting to
the airport today.
> >
> >
> >
> >
>> Homepage: http://www.flyrotary.com/
> > >> Archive:
http://lancaironline.net/lists/flyrotary/List.html
> >
>
>
>
> >> Homepage: http://www.flyrotary.com/
> >> Archive:
http://lancaironline.net/lists/flyrotary/List.html
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