Return-Path: Received: from imf23aec.mail.bellsouth.net ([205.152.59.71] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 4.2) with ESMTP id 395303 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Mon, 06 Sep 2004 13:12:22 -0400 Received-SPF: pass receiver=logan.com; client-ip=205.152.59.71; envelope-from=sqpilot@bellsouth.net Received: from Carol ([209.214.44.159]) by imf23aec.mail.bellsouth.net (InterMail vM.5.01.06.08 201-253-122-130-108-20031117) with SMTP id <20040906114128.QPKD1796.imf23aec.mail.bellsouth.net@Carol> for ; Mon, 6 Sep 2004 07:41:28 -0400 Message-ID: <002401c49406$68ee0340$9f2cd6d1@Carol> From: "paul" To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" References: Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: safety wiring Ross prop bolts Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2004 06:41:11 -0500 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0021_01C493DC.7F462C50" X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 6.00.2800.1437 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V6.00.2800.1441 This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0021_01C493DC.7F462C50 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hi, Ken.....the problem with drilling the end opposite the head and = inserting a cotter pin, is that the prop has to be re-torqued every 25 = hours (it is a wood prop), and/or when going from a humid climate to a = dry climate. Then, with the prop bolts newly torqued, the cotter pin = might no longer be at the proper depth, and it would be difficult to = drill a new hole each time, of course. Sounds like steel locknuts are = the way to go. Thanks for your interest and input. Paul Conner, SQ2000 = finally at the airport ----- Original Message -----=20 From: kenpowell@comcast.net=20 To: Rotary motors in aircraft=20 Sent: Sunday, September 05, 2004 8:56 AM Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: safety wiring Ross prop bolts Hi Ed, I came to aviation after racing motorcycles for many years. In the = early mototrcycle days I had stuff falling off the bike (actually, just = getting loose) until I discovered thread lockers (I was only a kid in = those early years(grin)). Well, now that I have seen the light and = discovered safety wire (I'm not sure its 'better' though) please educate = me further - How is safety wiring the head of a bolt going to keep the = nuts from falling off? Why not drill the aft end of the bolt (on the = backside of the nut) for a small cotter pin? Thanks, Ken Powell -------------- Original message --------------=20 > Paul, if you have all metal type (NOT NYLON Inserts) lock-nuts for = the=20 > bolts and a crush plate with a recess that the heads of the bolts = will seat=20 > into preventing them from turning, then it is not necessary to = safety=20 > wire the bolts. That is the way I flew my Ross drive and my = current RD-1C=20 > drive. However, You must use all metal type lock-nuts!=20 >=20 > If you do want the safety wire then I suggest get the drilled head = type=20 > bolts. Drilling the shank can weaken the bolt especially if you = have a bit=20 > of torque to apply.=20 >=20 > FWIW=20 >=20 > Ed=20 >=20 > Ed Anderson=20 > RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered=20 > Matthews, NC=20 > ----- Original Message -----=20 > From: "paul"=20 > To: "Rotary motors in aircraft"=20 > Sent: Sunday, September 05, 2004 9:13 AM=20 > Subject: [FlyRotary] safety wiring Ross prop bolts=20 >=20 >=20 > > Hi all....On a typical aircraft prop installtion, the heads of = the prop=20 > > bolts are drilled and then safety wired. This works, because the = prop=20 > flange=20 > > has fixed threaded sleeves into which the prop bolts fasten. On = my Ross=20 > > PSRU, there are thru-bolts, and instead of the bolts being = threaded into a=20 > > fixed unit, they go through the crush plate on the engine side = of the prop=20 > > and have locknuts instead. What might be the best method of = securing=20 > these=20 > > type of prop bolts? Unfortunately, I have seen a few other = rotary=20 > > installations with a Ross redrive, but never bothered to look to = see if=20 > the=20 > > prop bolts had safety wire, etc. Thanks for any and all = suggestions. Paul=20 > > Conner, 13b powered SQ2000 transporting to the airport today.=20 > >=20 > >=20 > >=20 > > >> Homepage: http://www.flyrotary.com/=20 > > >> Archive: http://lancaironline.net/lists/flyrotary/List.html=20 > >=20 >=20 >=20 >=20 > >> Homepage: http://www.flyrotary.com/=20 > >> Archive: http://lancaironline.net/lists/flyrotary/List.html ------=_NextPart_000_0021_01C493DC.7F462C50 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Hi, Ken.....the problem with drilling = the end=20 opposite the head and inserting a cotter pin, is that the prop has to be = re-torqued every 25 hours (it is a wood prop), and/or when going from a = humid=20 climate to a dry climate.  Then, with the prop bolts newly torqued, = the=20 cotter pin might no longer be at the proper depth, and it would be = difficult to=20 drill a new hole each time, of course.  Sounds like steel locknuts = are the=20 way to go.  Thanks for your interest and input.  Paul Conner, = SQ2000=20 finally at the airport
----- Original Message -----
From:=20 kenpowell@comcast.net
Sent: Sunday, September 05, = 2004 8:56=20 AM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: safety = wiring=20 Ross prop bolts

Hi Ed,

I came to aviation after racing motorcycles for many years.  = In the=20 early mototrcycle days I had stuff falling off the bike (actually, = just=20 getting loose) until I discovered thread lockers (I was only a kid in = those=20 early years(grin)).  Well, now that I have seen the light and = discovered=20 safety wire (I'm not sure its 'better' though) please educate me = further - How=20 is safety wiring the head of a bolt going to keep the nuts from = falling=20 off?  Why not drill the aft end of the bolt (on the backside of = the=20 nut) for a small cotter pin?

Thanks,  Ken Powell

--------------=20 Original message --------------

> Paul, if you have all = metal=20 type (NOT NYLON Inserts) lock-nuts for the
> bolts and a = crush plate=20 with a recess that the heads of the bolts will seat
> into = preventing=20 them from turning, then it is not necessary to safety
> wire = the=20 bolts. That is the way I flew my Ross drive and my current RD-1C =
>=20 drive. However, You must use all metal type lock-nuts!
> =
> If=20 you do want the safety wire then I suggest get the drilled head type =
> bolts. Drilling the shank can weaken the bolt especially if = you=20 have a bit
> of torque to apply.
>
> FWIW =
>=20
> Ed
>
> Ed Anderson
> RV-6A N494BW = Rotary=20 Powered
> Matthews, NC
> ----- Original Message ----- =
>=20 From: "paul"
> To: "Rotary motors in = aircraft"=20
> Sent: Sunday, September 05, = 2004 9:13=20 AM
> Subject: [FlyRotary] safety wiring Ross prop bolts =
>=20
>
> > Hi all....On a typical aircraft prop = installtion, the=20 heads of the prop
> > bolts are drilled and then safety = wired.=20 This works, because the prop
> flange
> > has fixed = threaded sleeves into which the prop bolts fasten. On my Ross =
> >=20 PSRU, there are thru-bolts, and instead of the bolts being threaded = into a=20
> > fixed unit, they go through the crush plate on the = engine side=20 of the prop
> > and have locknuts instead. What might be = the best=20 method of securing
> these
> > type of prop bolts?=20 Unfortunately, I have seen a few other rotary
> > = installations=20 with a Ross redrive, but never bothered to look to see if
> = the=20
> > prop bolts had safety wire, etc. Thanks for any and = all=20 suggestions. Paul
> > Conner, 13b powered SQ2000 = transporting to=20 the airport today.
> >
> >
> > =
> >=20 >> Homepage: http://www.flyrotary.com/
> > >> = Archive:=20 http://lancaironline.net/lists/flyrotary/List.html
> > =
>=20
>
>
> >> Homepage: = http://www.flyrotary.com/=20
> >> Archive:=20 http://lancaironline.net/lists/flyrotary/List.html=20
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