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Here is my version of the even simpler remover. This is a re-enactment. No
drives were actually removed in the making of this picture. :-) I just
used a 2x4 of approiate length and pried a hammer against the lip at the end
of the case. Worked great for me. Since I had gotten RTV into the bolt
channels I had to pry it the entire way off. I just kept using longer 2x4s
or adding wedges etc to keep the hammer at the right spot.
What to do if the spacer gets left behind? I don't know, mine came off all
together. But I think it would be easy to get just the spacer off.
BTW, I was mistaken, my B-drive is just like Rusty's as far as the oil drain
holes go.
Dave Leonard
Ok, you asked for it, Rusty
The Real World Solutions Sophisticated Gear Box Puller ( in other words,
> the TRWSSGBP). It raises pulling your gear box (no snickers
please) to an
> entirely new plane. In fact, no messy drilling, getting your tie caught
and
> enduring that awkward position until at least someone comes to your
rescue,
> no aluminum drill chips on your dinning room floor, no ugly
gashes on your
> new anodize mounting plate, no more trying to drill a 1/4" dia
hole, 1/2"
> from the tall mounting plate 1/2 the distance between two bolts, but not
> more than 1/2" deep or you will find yourself more than half
way through
> the casing.
>
> And its yours for the unbelievable low, low, never heard of price of
$19.99.
> But WAIT! if you hurry, in addition you get ... well, actually
that's all
> you do get.
See attached photos.
I took a foot long piece of 3/4 " diam screw rod from local
hardware store.
Got three nuts and a couple of washers to fix. Took a foot length of 1"
diam pipe and screwed on one of those floor attachment units
(sometimes used
to secure railings made out of pipe to the floor). Took the screw rod and
put two nuts and a washer on it and slid it into the pipe,
adjusted the nuts
until the end of the rod (which I also put a nut at the tip) was even with
the plane of the prop flange. Took a piece of angle iron, drill
a couple of
holes that matched the prop flange holes and one about 2" out
from the edge
of prop flange for the 3/4" rod. Secured the angle iron to the
prop flange.
Place the floor attachment against the mounting plate, place the
end of the
rod into the 3/4" hole in the angle iron and start turning one of the nuts
against the pipe to start the screw rod moving out from the pipe
and against
the angle iron. Very quickly the force will break the sealant.
If it separates at the spacer, I then use a gear Puller to pull out the
planetary gear and/or the gear box spacer.
It took me about 15 minutes to make the parts and now its easy to get the
gear box off - besides, didn't want to drill a hole in my nickel plated
gear box. {:>)
Ed Anderson
RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
Matthews, NC
Ed Anderson
RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
Matthews, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
To: "Laura Crook" <laura_crook@hotmail.com>; "Tracy Crook"
<lors01@msn.com>
Sent: Friday, October 03, 2003 8:56 PM
Subject: The TWSSGBP
> Ok, you saw it here first.
>
> The Real World Solutions Sophisticated Gear Box Puller ( in other
words,
> the TWSSGBP). It raises pulling your gear box (no snickers
please) to an
> entirely new plane. In fact, no messy drilling, getting your tie caught
and
> enduring that awkward position until at least someone comes to your
rescue,
> no aluminum drill chips on your dinning room floor, no ugly
gashes on your
> new anodize mounting plate, no more trying to drill a 1/4" dia
hole, 1/2"
> from the tall mounting plate 1/2 the distance between two bolts, but not
> more than 1/2" deep or you will find yourself more than half
way through
> the casing.
>
> And its yours for the unbelievable low, low, never heard of price of
$19.99.
> But WAIT! if you hurry, in addition you get ... well, actually
that's all
> you do get.
>
> Here are some photos I think self explanatory
>
>
> Ed Anderson
> RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
> Matthews, NC
> eanderson@carolina.rr.com
>
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