Return-Path: Received: from wind.imbris.com ([216.18.130.7]) by ns1.olsusa.com (Post.Office MTA v3.5.3 release 223 ID# 0-64832U3500L350S0V35) with ESMTP id com for ; Sun, 28 May 2000 22:20:52 -0400 Received: from regandesigns.com (tnt149-107.imbris.com [216.18.149.107]) by wind.imbris.com (8.9.3/8.9.3) with ESMTP id TAA71521 for ; Sun, 28 May 2000 19:25:44 -0700 (PDT) Message-ID: <3931B929.ED833E69@regandesigns.com> Date: Sun, 28 May 2000 19:26:17 -0500 From: Brent Regan To: Lancair List Subject: RE: Tech help X-Mailing-List: lancair.list@olsusa.com Mime-Version: 1.0 <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<--->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> << Lancair Builders' Mail List >> <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<--->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >> Joe's ammeter problem could be due to several things. First, is the ammeter sensing current from the alternator to the battery or from the battery to the aircraft. In the first case the problem is in the current sensor or more likely the sensor to DPU wiring. If the latter is the case then the problem could also be in the alternator, likely the regulator or regulator to alternator field wiring. What are the particulars of the alternator and regulator? Where is the sensor? His oil temperature could be a sensor problem. The wiring could be flaky or the sensor calibration could be off. Recommended action: If you have any connectors, particularly the "Faston" spade crimp type, replace them with soldered splices where possible. At the very least, solder the faston to the wire. Check that the connections on the DPU are solid. Check the calibration of the oil sensor by removing it and placing it in boiling water or hot water with a known good thermometer. If you use boiling water remember to correct for altitude. Regards Brent >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> LML website: http://www.olsusa.com/Users/Mkaye/maillist.html LML Builders' Bookstore: http://www.buildersbooks.com/lancair Please send your photos and drawings to marvkaye@olsusa.com. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>