lml@lancaironline.net Mailing List Archive

<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<--->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> << Lancair Builders' Mail List >> <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<--->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >> Re: lightspeed 25xl headsets I have a few pairs of the lightspeed 20 headsets. They also have been good when they work. However, In the 4 years that I have owned them they have been replaced or repaired 4 times. The most recent pair "fixed to factory new" now has developed the most awful noise every time I turn my head. I've given up. I guess it's back to the head pinching new Bose X. It's to bad, because when the Lightspeeds actually work they are more comfortable and quieter than the overpriced Bose. Grant Bailey Lancair Company Pilot -----Original Message----- From: lancair.list-request@olsusa.com [mailto:lancair.list-request@olsusa.com] On Behalf Of Lancair Sent: Wednesday, May 24, 2000 9:14 PM To: lancair.list@olsusa.com Subject: lancair.list V1 #41 lancair.list Thu, 25 May 2000 Volume 1 : Number 41 In this issue: Lightspeed 25XL Headsets Hydro cylinder rebuild Re: Shallow joggles and out of date manuals ES tail twist Gap seals... Katana prop tape? Re: Gap seals... Katana prop tape? Instrument panels on B/O <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<--->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> << Lancair Builders' Mail List >> <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<--->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >> ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 23 May 2000 22:02:15 -0700 From: "John Barrett" <2thman@olympus.net> To: "Lancair Mail List" <lancair.list@olsusa.com> Subject: Lightspeed 25XL Headsets Message-ID: <011501bfc53d$4f057d60$0464a8c0@station4> Here's an update on the Lightspeed 25XL ANR headset. As you recall, Marv and a few others had done some comparisons at Sun N Fun - Marv didn't think the 25XL was at the top of the heap - especially when price was factored in (it sells for about $585 vs about $300+ for some other ANR headsets) I flew to San Jose this past weekend - about 650 miles from the Olympic Peninsula - in my Beech Sierra. First x-country since acquiring the 25XL's. It took about 5.5 hours down and about the same on the return. I found that the noise reduction was tremendous when compared with what I'm used to with my Dave Clamp headsets. Also they were extremely comfortable for both my wife and me. I'm used to getting a splitting headache after a couple of hours in the air and having to take the headset off for a few minutes to relieve it. No such thing here even when wearing sunglasses under the earpieces. Marv mentioned that when he turned his head while trying the lightspeed on, the earcups would break the seal over the ear and a loud buzz would occur. I found this to be true also. It seemed difficult to adjust the headset so that the best fit would minimize these episodes. I was able after practice to almost eliminate this problem. However, I like to move my lower jaw back and forth when changing altitude to facilitate normalizing airpressure in my ears. Whenever I do that with this headset, the seal is broken and that buzzing happens. I think this is a pretty major drawback for the 25XL and I might not buy them if I had it to do over again. I'm not sure but I think this feature is part of the auto shut off circuitry that turns the batteries off when the headset is taken off for any length of time. On the other hand it could be simple feedback from overdriving the ANR circuits with too many decibels. Will let you know if I find out more. Regards, John Barrett - LIVP CARBINGE- "The World Hinges on Us" 360 385 1000 ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 24 May 2000 00:17:53 -0700 From: "dfs" <dfs@gateway.net> To: "Lancair List" <lancair.list@olsusa.com> Subject: Hydro cylinder rebuild Message-ID: <001001bfc550$2e081380$ca6b1b3f@oemcomputer> As mentioned here in the last few weeks, I've had a retract cylinder internal leakage problem that resulted in hydro pump "pulses" every few seconds. After isolating the offending cylinder (the right main) and obtaining the required rebuild kits from Lancair, I proceeded to undertake the rebuild of that cylinder. After disassembling the offending unit, I started the overhaul process. All went OK until I tried to insert the main piston in the barrel. On each side of the "T" shaped main seal, very thin split keepers (phenolic maybe) are installed that are about the same thickness as the snap-ring grooves in the cylinder ID. Sliding the new seal and keepers into the cylinder, the "keepers" would inevitably pop into the grooves and the piston would go no further without damaging the keepers. After sacrificing the first set, trying to get the keepers past the grooves, I installed the set from my second rebuild kit and after about an hour of twisting and cussing, they finally slid past and into the cylinder bore. A test of the rebuilt cylinder shows that the internal leak is fixed and the gear works properly - however - is anyone out there knowlegable on the correct technique for getting the cylinder back together without this problem? I'm sure that it's just a matter of time before I will need to overhaul another cylinder - and I really don't want to have the same reassembly problems I have had with this one. Dan Schaefer ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 24 May 2000 08:41:21 EDT From: N295VV@aol.com To: lancair.list@olsusa.com, toucan@the-i.net Subject: Re: Shallow joggles and out of date manuals Message-ID: <1e.5a9902d.265d27f1@aol.com> Gees, Jim Cameron, You want wing joggles that are deep enough? You want a manual that is current? What are you, some kind of nut? These are issues that arose in 1991 when we started the IV and it cost $40K. Well, it costs $100 K now, and they still do a shitty job of it. My pappy used to say, "As ye sow, so shall ye reap." Well, lots of kit manufacturers have gone this route, and as you see, they are dropping like flies. They reaped what they sowed. That they haven't corrected these problems is sheer idiocy. I mean, you have to be effing stupid not to listen to the complaints of your customers, and not to implement corrections to improve your product. Keep complaining in public. They hate it. I have been doing it for years, and it becomes a great stress reliever. Sooner or later they will get so pissed that they fix one of the complaints. Even getting one thing corrected is a small victory for us complainers. Best regards, David Jones ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 24 May 2000 08:13:46 -0500 From: "J. N. Cameron" <toucan@The-I.net> To: "Lancair List" <lancair.list@olsusa.com> Subject: ES tail twist Message-ID: <000f01bfc581$e749f4e0$73b188ce@pavilion> On my first ES, the vert stab skin did have a twist to it, so a fairly elaborate procedure had to be followed to get a straight tail. I cut a piece of 3/4" plywood about 36" long by 2" wide, then, using a cardboard template, cut out one side of the plywood piece to match the profile of the vertical stabilizer about half way between the HStab and the top of the VStab. This plywood piece was then fastened to the VStab with screws and a little cyanoacrylate glue. The piece when attached was parallel to the floor, and stuck out about a foot behind. To align the tail, I made a little wire loop sight at the back so that I was sighting from the midpoint of the where the rudder post would be. That is, if the rudder post was 4" wide at the height of my jig piece, I taped the little loop sight in place 2" to the left of the TE of the VStab skin. For the second sighting point I drilled a small hole in the LE of the VStab, trying to get the hole exactly centered. What we're going for here is a sighting line from the rear loop sight, through the hole in the VStab LE, to the top of the firewall, so the drilled hole needs to be a little below the level of the jig piece. Next step is to find the exact center point of the firewall, then just push an 8-penny nail into the honeycomb core far enough so that it sticks up as your sighting point. What I did next was to tie a 1/8" nylon cord around the aft-most part of the jig piece, then find something immovable nearby to tie it to. I found I had to pull it considerably to the left in order to pull the sighting point to the middle; i.e., without the jig arrangement, the tail would have pointed about to the front left corner of the firewall, instead of to the center. I left the tension on the jig piece until all of the spars, ribs, spar caps, etc., were completed. Frankly, I can't remember if I left it in place until the VStab was closed, but I don't think so, as some of the screws holding the jig piece were put in from the inside. That wasn't the end of the tail problems, actually. The shape of the VStab was not symmetrical; i.e., if you cut a cross-section in a plane parallel to the floor and looked at it from above, you'd see that one side was considerably less convex that the other. In other words, one side was flatter than the other. The greater curvature of one side also meant that the skin didn't fair back to the rudder properly, so a large area had to be micro filled and covered with glass to get a smooth airfoil. Shape of the rudder wasn't symmetrical, either, and getting proper gaps between VStab and rudder was a long, tedious deal. Jim Cameron, ES #2 in Progress (no tail yet, so ???) ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 24 May 2000 19:15:36 -0700 From: "Walter P. Dodson" <coy0te@pacbell.net> To: LancairList <lancair.list@olsusa.com> Subject: Gap seals... Katana prop tape? Message-ID: <001101bfc5ef$36dbe6e0$c548fea9@coy0te> I went to the Diamond Aircraft Factory Katana school a few years ago and learned a bit. They do, in fact, have a nice white tape by 3M called "Pressure Sensitive Tape". It is for gap seals but nowhere on the roll or it's paper wrapper can I find a number. My books are downstairs... Also, 3M makes "Polyurethane Protective Tape Adesion Promoter 86" which you should use prior to application. I also have a roll of the most expensive tape ever: "3M 8671-2 Leading Edge Tape" for the Hoffmann Propeller. It is only $140 per roll. The gap tape is 1-1/2" wide and the prop tape is 2" wide. Costs for the other items are not written on their packaging, so I have no idea (other than expensive) how much it costs. See your 3M dealer. Walter Dodson ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 24 May 2000 23:51:27 EDT From: JOSCALES@aol.com To: coy0te@pacbell.net, lancair.list@olsusa.com Subject: Re: Gap seals... Katana prop tape? Message-ID: <c6.5a66bea.265dfd3f@aol.com> I have done business with Eastern Sailplane out of Ohio for gap seals and seal tape. They have it all and are nice to do business with. You can look at their web page for information. Jim Scales 98AF ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 24 May 2000 21:00:55 -0700 From: "Walter P. Dodson" <coy0te@pacbell.net> To: LancairList <lancair.list@olsusa.com> Subject: Instrument panels on B/O Message-ID: <000801bfc5fd$f3368ee0$c548fea9@coy0te> The factory is playing catch-up on instrument panels. A month ago (or thereabouts) I was told there was only one person making panels (for the IV-P?). I could sure use mine. I was also told they were working to remedy the situation. As I remember, there would be a wait of six or so weeks untill my delivery. Walter Dodson, IV-P needs panel. ------------------------------ End of lancair.list V1 #41 ************************** >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> LML website: http://www.olsusa.com/Users/Mkaye/maillist.html LML Builders' Bookstore: http://www.buildersbooks.com/lancair Please send your photos and drawings to marvkaye@olsusa.com. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> LML website: http://www.olsusa.com/Users/Mkaye/maillist.html LML Builders' Bookstore: http://www.buildersbooks.com/lancair Please send your photos and drawings to marvkaye@olsusa.com. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>