Mailing List lml@lancaironline.net Message #34395
From: Robert R Pastusek <rpastusek@htii.com>
Sender: <marv@lancaironline.net>
Subject: RE: [LML] IVP Rudder Advice
Date: Thu, 09 Feb 2006 00:09:26 -0500
To: <lml@lancaironline.net>
Tom Sullivan wrote:
 
 One other question;  what is the best side to install the access openings for the rudder hinge bolts?  Pictures I have accumulated over the years seem to find them on either side.  Also, any tricks to get full rudder deflection without the "slots" showing at the neutral position?  I plan to make access covers for the access side of the hinge, but wondering for the opposite side.  The workmanship looks so much better (to me anyway) if those slots aren't showing at the neutral rudder position. 
 
Tom,
I don't think it makes any difference as to the side you install the slots/openings to access the rudder hinge bolts--they are lesson in patience and perseverance to install/remove no matter how you do it! You've probably already discovered that the counterweight in the top of the rudder makes installation and removal a two-person task as well. To make the rudder openings almost completely hidden when the rudder is in the neutral position, I cut some elongated oval holes in the front rudder close out piece (the long half-tube that bonds to the front of the rudder), about 6 inches above the lower, and 6" below the mid and top hinge bolts.  I established the location by moving the rudder to full left deflection, then marking the places for the holes on the right side of the closeout, just clear of the rear edge of the vertical stab. You can install and tighten the rudder bolts by using a ground down wrench on the head, and a 1/4" socket with one or two extensions and a universal joint to tighten the nuts (I didn't say this was easy). There are no removable panels for my rudder bolts, and the installation "holes" are completely hidden when the rudder is in neutral. I said the openings were "almost hidden" above because I had to enlarge the horizontal slots in the front rudder close out just a bit into the visible area to get the required rudder travel. (One of my non-aeronautical friends suggested that we just grind away the hinge support where needed--in lieu of trimming the closeout, but I just couldn't bring myself to do this...
 
You referenced one of my pictures for the earlier part of this post; I'll see if I can find one showing the holes, or at least I can make another this weekend if desired, but hopefully this explanation will help?
 
Bob Pastusek
Subscribe (FEED) Subscribe (DIGEST) Subscribe (INDEX) Unsubscribe Mail to Listmaster