John,
Same situation here with the 320 in the 235 cowl. The exhaust pipe is
very close to the intake tube stub on the sump on #2, so the rubber hose
connection is even closer. I ground down the rubber connection hose
thinner there for a little more space. An alternative is to remove the
exhaust (a big job on this engine) and create more clearance via pipe
massaging in that area. With the exhaust pipe going thru above the
intake tubes and below the bottom of the cylinders for bottom cowl clearance,
space is a real premium for other items like the cylinder baffle safety wires,
cht probes, oil return lines, starter cables, etc.
Gary
LNC2
-----
Original Message -----
Sent:
Wednesday, November 27, 2013 7:53 AM
Subject:
[LML] [LNC2] Intake hose touching exhaust
The #2 cylinder of my O-290-D2 has been a real problem child.
While dealing with the impossible-to-reach inboard exhaust flange nut, I
noticed that the intake hose is actually touching the header
wrap on the exhaust stack which runs below the intake tube, and is very
close to touching the upper exhaust stack. This seems like a recipe for
disaster. Has anyone else had this problem and if so, how did you solve it?
Has anyone tried using silicone rubber hose or flexible metal hose? Does the
exhaust stack need to be reworked? Any suggestions would be very
appreciated.
Here's
a wide-angle shot taken before I installed the intake tube and hose:
P.S. If anybody was
wondering, that aluminum flexible "hose" you see running along the top of the
oil sump is Thermo-Flex,
a flexible high-temperature heat shield which will hopefully protect the
wiring to the starter and alternator. The insulation on the #2 wiring to the
starter was actually discolored due to the heat in that
area.