lml@lancaironline.net Mailing List Archive

Special plexiglas drills did work for me and I am a total novice. I made my windows removable by mounting clickbond studs around the frames, drilling the plexiglas (way oversize holes to account for plexiglas thermal expansion) to fit over the studs, and running down stopnuts with oversized washers (with rounded edges) to hold the windows in. 2 months / 40 hours, no problems yet. And I have removed the windows several times for comfort during in-tail work.

There is a drawback however. The windows are inset about 1/10 inch rather than flush with the outside of the fuselage.

Charley Brown Legacy 299

110723a Rt Window.jpeg

110722c Rt Window Studs.jpeg

On Nov 21, 2011, at 7:29 AM, Gary Edwards wrote:

...Another idea is drill holes through the plexiglass in the
bonding area to allow hysol squeeze through...
back side...

Good way to crack the plexiglass unless a special drill is used. I've seen it happen (no not me).

Gary Edwards

LNC2

----- Original Message -----
From: Bob Smiley
To: lml@lancaironline.net
Sent: Sunday, November 20, 2011 3:57 PM
Subject: [LML] Re: Window Bonding

Suggestion;

I assume you sanded the plexiglass to provide some tooth for hysol bonding.
100 or lower grit. Another idea is drill holes through the plexiglass in the
bonding area to allow hysol squeeze through and mechanical bonding on the
back side. I also incidently applied a two bid fiberglass over the
plexiglass bonding area and about 1/12 inches on the fuselage sidethus
capturing the glass.

Hope this helps out.

Bob Smiley
360 94RJ